1. Coatings and Laminations

Coatings and Laminations is a special material category typically used to add function to another material. In these cases, the full material will be a multi-constituent blend composed of the coating or lamination layer(s) and the additional substrate layer(s). When creating a multi-constituent custom material using a coating or lamination, begin by selecting and customizing a raw material from another material category (such as Textiles) to create the substrate layer. Then, select the desired coating or laminate and customize it as an additional constituent part of the material blend.

If only the weight of the finished material (substrate plus coating/lamination) is known, a default assumption of 10% for the coating or lamination layer should be applied. It is recommended that the weight of the coating or lamination layer be determined by subtracting the average substrate weight from the average finished fabric weight.

Materials in the Coatings and Laminations category can also be specified as the single constituent of a product, as in films and membranes with no substrate. In these cases, begin by selecting the Coatings and Laminations material category when creating a custom material.

Coatings and Laminations can be customized at the following Production Stages:

• Raw Material Source
• Membrane/Film Creation
• Bonding
• Chemistry Certifications

There are six different material types in the Coatings and Laminations material category. These can be differentiated first by deciding if the material is a coating or a laminate, and then by selecting the function type of the coating or laminate (BiComponent, Microporous, and Monolithic).

• Coating should be used for polymeric layers that are bonded directly to a substrate surface after being applied in a liquid form, with the thickness of the coating commonly controlled by adjusting the height of a knife or blade.
• Laminate should be used for polymeric layers that are formed through a membrane creation step.

For films and membranes, the resulting material is not necessarily bonded to a substrate but should still be selected as a laminate. Extrusion coating and lamination should also be specified as a laminate, as the impacts of extrusion are incorporated in the Higg MSI as part of the membrane creation production stage.

• BiComponent Coatings and Laminations should be selected when the coating or laminate layer is composed of two different material types that are combined together.
• Microporous Coatings and Laminations should be selected when the coating or laminate layer is composed of a single material type and has a network of physical microscopic pores to enhance air and moisture permeability.
• Monolithic Coatings and Laminations should be selected when the coating or laminate layer is composed of a single material type but does not have any physical microscopic pores. Breathable hydrophilic membranes of a single material type but without pores are part of this material type.

If it is not known whether the material is a coating or laminate, then Laminate should be selected to avoid underrepresenting manufacturing impacts.If the function type is not known, then Monolithic should be selected. If both are unknown, then Monolithic Laminate should be selected.

Raw Material Source

The Raw Material Source production stage has different process options depending on the different functional types of coatings and laminates.

a) BiComponent Coating and BiComponent Laminate

There are two raw material process options available for these materials:

• Barrier substrate, PET (80%) and PU (20%)should be selected when the bicomponent base material is polyester (PET). As long as PET is greater than 50% of the membrane base material, this process should be selected regardless of exact PET/PU percentage.
• Barrier substrate, PTFE (80%) and PU (20%) should be selected when the bicomponent base material is polytetrafluoroethylene (PTFE) or expanded PTFE (ePTFE). As long as PTFE is greater than 50% of the membrane base material, this process should be selected regardless of exact PTFE/PU percentage.

If the raw material content is not known or is not mentioned above, then the default selection of barrier substrate, PET (80%) and PU (20%) should be left unchanged.

b) Microporous Coating and Microporous Laminate

There are four raw material process options available for these materials:

• Acrylonitrile, fossil fuel based, for coatings and laminations should be selected when the raw material content is an acrylic polymer. Other material content of up to 5% is allowable when choosing this process.
• High density polyethylene (HDPE), fossil fuel based, for coatings and laminations should be selected when the raw material content is high density polyethylene. Other material content of up to 5% is allowable when choosing this process.
• Thermoset polyurethane (PU), fossil fuel based, for coatings and laminations should be selected when the raw material content is a thermoset polyurethane polymer. Other material content of up to 5% is allowable when choosing this process.
• Polyethylene terephthalate (PET) plastic, fossil fuel based, for coatings and laminations should be selected when the raw material content is a polyester polymer. Other material content of up to 5% is allowable when choosing this process.

If the raw material content is not known or is not mentioned above, then the default selection of Thermoset polyurethane (PU), fossil fuel based, for coatings and laminations should be left unchanged.

c) Monolithic Coating

There are several raw material process options available for these materials:

• Thermoplastic polyurethane (TPU), fossil fuel based, for coatings and laminations should be used when the raw material content is a thermoplastic polyurethane polymer. This process is also an acceptable proxy for other unlisted thermoplastic elastomers. Other material content of up to 5% is still allowable when choosing this process.
• Thermoset polyurethane (PU), fossil fuel based, for coatings and laminations should be used when the raw material content is a thermoset polyurethane polymer. Other material content of up to 5% is still allowable when choosing this process.
• Silicone, fossil fuel based, for coatings and laminations should be used when the raw material content is a silicone polymer. Other material content of up to 5% is still allowable when choosing this process.
• Polyethylene terephthalate (PET) plastic, fossil fuel based, for coatings and laminationsshould be selected when the raw material content is a polyester polymer. Other material content of up to 5% is still allowable when choosing this process.
• Polyvinyl chloride (PVC), fossil fuel based, for coatings and laminations should be selected when the raw material content is PVC. Other material content of up to 5% is still allowable when choosing this process. Plasticizers should be considered as part of the PVC.
• Ethylene-vinyl acetate (EVA), fossil fuel based, for coatings and laminations should be selected when using Ethylene vinyl acetate EVA sometimes simply known as “acetate”. Other material content of up to 5% is still allowable when choosing this process.

If the raw material content is not known or is not mentioned above, then the default selection of Thermoset polyurethane (PU), fossil fuel based, for coatings and laminations should be left unchanged.

d) Monolithic Laminate

There are several raw material process options available for these materials:

• Thermoplastic polyurethane (TPU), fossil fuel based, for coatings and laminations should be used when the raw material content is primarily a thermoplastic polyurethane polymer. This process is an acceptable proxy for other unlisted thermoplastic elastomers. Other material content of up to 5% is allowable when choosing this process.
• Thermoset polyurethane (PU), fossil fuel based, for coatings and laminations should be used when the raw material content is a thermoset polyurethane polymer. Other material content of up to 5% is allowable when choosing this process.
• Silicone, fossil fuel based, for coatings and laminations should be used when the raw material content is a silicone polymer. Other material content of up to 5% is allowable when choosing this process.
• Polyethylene terephthalate (PET) plastic, fossil fuel based, for coatings and laminations should be selected when the raw material content is a polyester polymer. Other material content of up to 5% is allowable when choosing this process.
• Polyethylene terephthalate (PET), mechanically recycled, for coatings and laminations should be selected when the raw material content is a recycled polyester polymer. If the laminate layer contains both recycled polyester content and another polymer, then these should be specified as separate material constituents (e.g. if the laminate is 50% recycled PET and 50% PET, then two separate material constituents need to be created for this laminate.)
• Polyethylene (PE) resin, fossil fuel based, for coatings and laminations should be selected when the raw material content is primarily a polyethylene polymer. Other material content of up to 5% isallowable when choosing this process.
• Ethylene-vinyl acetate (EVA), fossil fuel based, for coatings and laminations should be selected when using Ethylene vinyl acetate EVA sometimes simply known as “acetate”. Other material content of up to 5% is still allowable when choosing this process.

If the raw material content is not known or is not mentioned above, then the default selection of Thermoset polyurethane (PU), fossil fuel based, for coatings and laminations should be left unchanged.

Membrane/Film Creation

The Membrane/Film Creation production stage is only applicable to laminate material types. There are four process options that are available for all laminate materials:

• Extrusion on carrier should be selected when the raw material is melted and extruded onto a release paper carrier to form a film or membrane. The release paper is removed and the film or membrane can be used as-is or can be bonded to a different substrate.
• Extrusion without carrier should be selected when the raw material is melted and extruded into a film or membrane directly with no release paper, such as in direct extrusion and bonding onto a textile substrate.
• Solvent solution on carrier should be selected when the raw material is dissolved in an organic solvent before being poured onto a carrier. The membrane or film is formed by evaporating the solvent through the application of heat.
• Water based solution on carrier should be selected when the raw material is dissolved primarily in water before being poured onto a carrier. The membrane or film is formed by evaporating the water and other solvents through the application of heat.

If the specific membrane creation process is not known, then the default selection of extrusion without carrier should be left unchanged.

Bonding

The Bonding production stage has different process options depending on whether the material type is a Coating or a Laminat

a) Coatings (Bicomponent, Microporous, and Monolithic)

The process options have two considerations: the type of coating and the number of times the coating is applied.

• Number of Times Applied:When choosing the number of timesa coating is applied, the selection should be based on the number of material layers. As an example, for a two-layer material (such as one fabric layer and one coating layer), “1 time (for 2 layers)” should be selected. If there are more material layers (up to 5 are available), then select the corresponding number of times. Above 5 material layers, select the maximum number of times (i.e. “4 times (for 5 layers)”). If a material has more than 2 layers and has different bonding types for the different layers, then multi-select a mixture of the process options. For instance, for a three-layer material with two types of bonding, select the “1 time (for 2 layers)” option twice – once for each bonding type – rather than selecting one bonding process and the “2 times (for 3 layers)” option.
• Solvent Emulsion should be selected when the coating type uses volatile organic compounds (such as toluene and/or methyl ether ketone) to dissolve the coating polymer.
• Water Based Emulsion should be selected when the coating type uses water as the primary solvent to dissolve the coating polymer. Small amounts of organic solvents are sometimes included in water based emulsions. Organic solvent content under 5% is allowable when choosing water based emulsion.
• Hotmelt Glue,also known as hotmelt adhesive, should be selected when the coating polymer is liquified using heat rather than dissolved in a solvent. Hotmelt glues are made of thermoplastic polymers.

If the bonding process is not known or is not mentioned above, then the default selection of Coating, solvent emulsion, 1 time (for 2 layers) should be left unchanged.

b) Laminates (Bicomponent, Microporous, and Monolithic)

The process options have two aspects that need to be considered: the type of laminate and the number of times the laminate layers are bonded.

• Number of Times:When choosing the number of times the laminate is bonded, the selection should be based on the number of material layers. As an example, for a two-layer material (such as one fabric layer and one laminate layer), select “1 time (for 2 layers)”. If there are more material layers (up to 5 are available), select the corresponding number of times. Above 5 material layers, select the maximum number of times (i.e. “4 times (for 5 layers)”). If a material has more than 2 layers and has different bonding types for the different layers, then multi-select a mixture of the process options. For instance, for a three-layer material with two types of bonding, select the “1 time (for 2 layers)” twice – once for each bonding type – rather than selecting one bonding process and the “2 times (for 3 layers)” option.
• Hotmelt Glue,also known as hotmelt adhesive, should be selected when the laminate is bonded using a thermoplastic polymer glue that is liquified using heat rather than being dissolved in a solvent.
• Flame should be selected when the laminate is bonded by using an open flame to melt the surface of the laminate material, which then acts as the glue.
• Solvent Glue should be selected when the laminate is bonded using a polymer glue that is dissolved using volatile organic compounds (such as toluene and/or methyl ether ketone).
• Water Based Glue should be selected when the laminate is bonded using a polymer glue that uses water as the primary solvent. Small amounts of organic solvents are sometimes included in water based emulsions. Organic solvent content under 5% is allowable when choosing water based emulsion.

If the bonding process is not known or is not mentioned above, then the default selection of Lamination, hotmelt glue, 1 time (for 2 layers) should be left unchanged.

 

Chemistry Certifications

The chemistry score of a material can be reduced by adding Chemistry Certifications. These are certifications and programs that have submitted assessments and been reviewed as part of the Higg MSI Chemistry Impact Framework. For more information, see Appendix D of the Higg MSI Methodology Document and read the Frequently Asked Questions.

Chemistry Management Qualifiers can be added in two areas of the Higg MSI:

• As part of the “Chemistry Certifications” Production Stage (Material level)
• As part of the “Chemistry Certification” column in Additional Process Options (Facility and Process level)

The Chemistry Certifications are mapped to different material and process types and only applicable certifications are shown. Below is the full list, as well as when they should be applied:

a) Chemistry Certifications Production Stage (Material Level)

All Chemistry Certifications that can be selected at the Production Stage require the full material to be certified. The facility having certification without confirmation of material level certification is not sufficient.

• Bluesign Certified[Material] should be selected only when the material is confirmed to be a bluesign® APPROVED material. For more information, visithttps://www.bluesign.com/en. Materials produced at bluesign system partner facilities without confirmed bluesign APPROVED status should not select this certification.
• Cradle to Cradle Gold Certified[Material] should be selected only when the material is confirmed to be a Cradle to Cradle Certified™ Gold or Platinum materials. For more information, visit https://www.c2ccertified.org/. Cradle to Cradle Certified™ Basic, Bronze, and Silver should not select this certification.
• Global Organic Textile Standard (GOTS) Certified [Material]should be selected only when the full textile material is GOTS certified. For more information, visit https://www.global-standard.org/. The full textile must be GOTS certified. Organic content without GOTS certification at the material level should not select this certification.
• Global Recycled Standard (GRS) Certified[Material]should be selected only when the full material is GRS certified. For more information, visit https://textileexchange.org/. The full material must be certified. Recycled content without GRS certification at the material level should not select this certification.
• OekoTex Made in Green Certified [Material] should be selected only when the full material is OekoTex® Made in Green certified. For more information, visit https://www.oeko-tex.com/en/. This certification encompasses both OekoTex Standard 100 and STePcertification. When selecting this certification, it is not required to select both certifications separately. Additionally, selecting OekoTex Standard 100 and/or STeP certification will not result in a difference of scoring.
• OekoTex Standard 100 Certified [Material] should be selected only when the full material is OekoTex® Standard 100 certified. For more information, visit https://www.oeko-tex.com/en/. Intermediate products (such as yarn) that are Standard 100 certified should not select this certification.

b) Chemistry Certifications in Additional Process Options (Facility and Process Level)

All Chemistry Certifications that can be selected in the Additional Process Options section of the Higg MSI are applied to the specific process selection. If a certification is applicable to multiple Production Stages, then it should be applied to each process.

• Better Cotton Initiative (BCI) [Raw Material] should be selected when the cotton raw material is BCI cotton. For more information, visit https://bettercotton.org. This selection is only available for cotton raw material source.
• Global Recycled Standard (GRS) [Raw Material] should be selected when the recycled content is certified GRS. For more information, visit https://textileexchange.org/. This selection is only available for recycled raw material sources. If the full material is GRS certified, as selected through the Production Stage [Material] option, this certification does not have to be additionally selected at the process level.
• Cradle to Cradle Gold Certified [Raw Material] should be selected when the raw material is certified Cradle to Cradle Gold raw material.For more information, visit https://www.c2ccertified.org/. If the full material is Cradle to Cradle Gold certified, as selected through the Production Stage [Material] option, this certification does not have to be additionally selected at the process level.
• Oeko-TexSTeP Level 2+ [Facility] should be selected when the process takes place at a facility that has achieved OekoTexSTeP Level 2 certification.For more information, visit https://www.oeko-tex.com/en/. If the facility has only achieved STeP Level 1, this certification should not be selected. If the full material is OekoTex Made in Green certified, as selected through the Production Stage [Material] option, this certification does not have to be additionally selected at the facility level.
• Global Recycled Standard (GRS) [Facility] should be selected when the process takes place at a facility that has achieved GRS certification. For more information, visit https://textileexchange.org/. If the full material is GRS certified, as selected through the Production Stage [Material] option, this certification does not have to be additionally selected at the facility level.

2. Foams

The Foam material category is composed of solid materials that have been expanded using chemical and/or physical blowing agents. This process results in a solid material that contains foam cells, which are bubbles that have been frozen in size and shape in the foam material. The Foam material category can be used for any foams, including open cell and closed cell, as well as for flexible and rigid foams.

Foam materials can be customized at the following Production Stages:

• Raw Material Source
• Raw Material Form
• Mixing/Preparation
• Foaming
• Molding/Pouring
• Chemistry Certifications

At minimum, the primary raw material content needs to be known to select an appropriate foam material option in the Higg MSI.

There are several Example Materials in the Foam category that can be selected and customized.

• Ethylene-vinyl acetate (EVA) foam should be selected when the raw material type of the foam is EVA. If the EVA compound has significant filler (>10% by mass relative to EVA, not including pigments), then the Typical EVA shoe compound material should be selected instead.
• Polyethylene (PE) foam should be selected when the raw material type of the foam is polyethylene.
• Polyurethane (PU) foam should be selected when the raw material type of the foam is polyurethane. Foams that are directly formed from isocyanate and polyol inputs should select this material type, since the resulting raw material is polyurethane.
• Typical EVA shoe compound should be selected when the raw material type of the foam is a typical shoe compound comprised of EVA, filler, and pigments.
• Polyvinyl chloride (PVC) foam should be selected when the raw material type of the foam is polyvinyl chloride (PVC).
• Thermoplastic elastomer (TPE) foam should be selected when the raw material type of the foam is fossil fuel based thermoplastic elastomer (TPE).
• Expanded Polystyrene (EPS) foam should be selected when the raw material type of the foam is Expanded Polystyrene.
• Polyethylene Terephthalate (PET) Foam should be selected when the raw material type of the foam is PET.

Raw Material Source

Within each of the Foam materials, there are multiple raw material content options available to further customize a material.

If only the general raw material type is known, then the default selection should be left unchanged.

a) Ethylene-vinyl acetate (EVA) foam

• Ethylene-vinyl acetate (EVA), fossil fuel based is the default selection and should be selected unless one of the other process options are more appropriate.
• Ethylene-vinyl acetate (EVA), recycled should be selected when using EVA raw material that is known to have 100% recycled content. If the raw material content is a blend of recycled and virgin EVA, then a custom material blend should be created using the known ratio of recycled to virgin EVA.
• Bloom EVA {Algix}, US should only be selected when the raw material is known to be Bloom EVA from Algix.

b) Expanded Polystyrene (EPS) foam

The default selection and should be selected when using EPS where the granules are frothed, treated in a block foaming machine, cutted and piled.

c) Polyethylene (PE) foam

• High density polyethylene (HDPE) resin, fossil fuel based, for foam should be selected for all High Density polyethylene foam materials.
• Polyethylene (LDPE) resin, fossil fuel based, for foam should be selected for all Low Density polyethylene foam materials.
• Polyethylene (PE), recycled, for foam should be selected when using recycled PE foam materials. Applies to both High density polyethylene (HDPE) and Low density polyethylene (LPDE) recycled foam materials.

d) Polyethylene Terephthalate (PET) Foam

Should be selected for all PET-based foam materials.

e) Polyurethane (PU) foam

• Thermoset polyurethane (PU), fossil fuel based, for foam is the default selection and should be selectedunless it is known that one of the other process options are more appropriate.
• Polyurethane (PU) foam {Great Lotus}, 20% biobased (soy polyol) should be selected when using “Natural 20” partially biobased polyurethane from Great Lotus.
• FATES™ Polyurethane (PU) foam {Evoco}, 80% biobased should be selected when using Evoco’s FATES™ PU foam. FATES™ is a patented plant-based flexible foam that is GreenCircle and USDA BioPreferred certified, with up to 80% plant-based content.

f) Polyvinyl chloride (PVC) foam

The default selection and should be selected for all Polyvinyl chloride (PVC) foam materials.

g) Thermoplastic elastomer (TPE)

The default selection and should be selected for all Thermoplastic elastomer (TPE) foam materials

h) Typical EVA shoe compound

The default selection and should be selected when using the Typical EVA shoe compound material.

Raw Material Form

The Raw Material Form is an unscored Production Stage indicating the physical form of the Raw Material Source before it is initially processed.This Production Stage is unscored because its impacts are already included in the raw material stage and there is currently no differentiation among the different forms’ environmental impacts.

If the Raw Material Form is not known, then the default selection should remain unchanged. Adjusting processes in this Production Stage will not change the scores or the impacts of a customized material.

• Pellets is the default selection and should be selected when the Raw Material Source is initially processed from solid pellets and/or when the form of the Raw Material Source is unknown.
• Flake should be selected when the Raw Material Source is initially processed from solid material flakes.
• Liquid should be selected when the Raw Material Source is initially processed from liquid state. Polyurethane foam processed onsite from isocyanates and polyols is an example of when Liquid should be selected.

Mixing/Preparation

The Mixing/Preparation stage covers the preparation of the foam material for further processing. There is currently limited information for this Production Stage and the process options can be used for all Foam materials.

• Mixing, open mill, for foam is the default selection and should be selected unless there is no preparation step to mix the foam compound. While the process is modeled as an open mill, it should remain selected regardless of mixing method. “None” should only be selected if there is no preparation and mixing process.

Foaming

The Foaming stage covers the processing where the foam cells of the final material are created, such as through chemical and/or physical foaming. The Foaming process options below are applicable for all Foam materials.

• Blowing agent, chemicalis the default selection and should be selected when chemical reactions and/or thermal decomposition of chemical additives are used to create the foam cells.
• Blowing agent, physical should be selected when liquid blowing agents are dissolved into the foam precursor and the foaming is caused by the volatilization of the blowing agent. HCFCs, certain hydrocarbon compounds, and liquid CO2 are all used as physical blowing agents.

For polyurethane foams, the above two blowing options are available in addition to options that include foam reticulation:

• Blowing agent, […] + foam reticulating should be selected when after the main foaming reaction, the foam structure is modified through foam reticulation to increase its permeability. A flammable substance and ignition is used to perforate and sinter the foam cells.

Molding/Pouring

The Molding/Pouring stage covers the physical forming of the foam material to prepare it for use in product assembly. Molding/Pouring is a multi-select Production Stage and more than one process can be selected. Most processes are applicable to all Foam materials.

• Injection molding, for foam is the default selection for all Foam materials except polyurethane foam. This process should be selected when the foamed material is in liquid form and injected into a pre-made mold, cooled, then removed and trimmed.
• Die cutting, from sheet stock should be selected when the foam material is prepared into a sheet of foam and then cut into shape, typically with a flatbed or rotary press.
• Die cutting, from sheet stock, two times should be selected when the Die cutting, from sheet stock process is performed twice to achieve the final shape required for product assembly. For instance, if a footwear insole is cut to a generic size prior to molding and then cut again to fit the specific shoe size, the Die cutting, from sheet stock, two times process should be selected.
• Molding, compression should be selected when the foam material is shaped by being placed into a heated mold and compressed.
• Molding, compression, two times should be selected when the Molding, compression process is performed twice to achieve the final shape required for product assembly.

Polyurethane foam has an additional Molding/Pouring process option:

• Pouring, bulk, for foam is the default selection and represents forming by bulk pouring. It is common for a polyurethane material to be bulk poured to create a sheet, followed by additional Molding/Pouring steps to prepare for product assembly.

3. Insulation Material

The Insulation material category is composed of natural and synthetic materials that provide thermal resistance.

Insulation materials can be customized at the following Production Stages:

• Raw Material Source/Animal Husbandry and Region
• Raw Material Processing
• Finished Material Processing

At minimum, the primary raw material type needs to be known to select an appropriate Insulation material option in the Higg MSI.

There are several Insulation materials that can be selected and customized:

• Polyester insulation should be selected when the fiber type of the insulation is made from polyester.
• Duck Down insulation should be selected when the insulation is down and/or feathers from ducks and other waterfowl, other than geese.
• Goose Down insulation should be selected when the insulation is down and/or feathers from geese.
• Sheep Wool insulation should be selected when the fiber type of the insulation is wool.
• Polypropylene insulation should be selected when the fiber type of the insulation is made from polypropylene.

Raw Material Source/Animal Husbandry and Region

Each Insulation example material has different Raw Material Source options available for customization.

If only the general fiber type is known, as described above, then the default selection should be left unchanged.

a) Polypropylene insulation

Polypropylene (PP), fossil fuel based, for insulation is the default selection and should be selected for all Polypropylene insulation materials. In this process Polypropylene is polymerised from propene (propylene), which is extracted by cracking naphtha or gas oil in a steam-cracker.

b) Polyester insulation

• Polyethylene terephthalate (PET), fossil fuel based, for insulation is the default selection for polyester polymer. This process models PET manufacturing via the ethylene glycol and terephthalic acid synthesis route, which is the most common method used to manufacture for PET fiber.
• Polyethylene terephthalate (PET), mechanically recycled, for insulation material should be selected if the polyester polymer is converted from mechanically recycled PET bottle flakes to recycled PET pellets before being converted into PET fiber. If the specific recycling technology is unknown, then the mechanical recycling process detailed above is the most likely processing type and should be selected.
• Polyethylene terephthalate (PET), semi-mechanically recycled, for insulation should be selected if the PET polymer is converted from mechanically recycled PET bottle flakes to recycled PET pellets before being converted into PET fiber. In this process, an additional ethylene glycol treatment is used to purify the polymer.
• Polyethylene terephthalate (PET), chemically (BHET) recycled, for insulation should be selected if the PET polymer is chemically depolymerized via a glycolysis process. In this production method, Bis(2-Hydroxyethyl) terephthalate (BHET) will be the primary intermediate oligomer that is produced. After depolymerization, the BHET is filtered and re-polymerized back into PET. This process may be selected for any PET chemical recycling where a glycolysis reaction is the primary depolymerization route.
• Polyethylene terephthalate (PET), chemically (methanolysis) recycled, for insulation should be selected if the PET polymer is chemically depolymerized via a methanolysis process. In this production method, PET is converted into dimethyl terephthalate (DMT) and ethylene glycol monomers. These are then re-polymerized back into PET. This process is the best proxy for PET chemical recycling that uses hydrolysis (depolymerization to terephthalic acid and ethylene glycol) and other alcoholysis depolymerization routes.

c) Duck Down insulation

• Duck farming, conventional is the default selection for duck down and should be used unless duck down is certified and traceable as recycled content.
• Duck down, recycled should only be selected when the down source is certified and traceable as 100% recycled content. If the raw material content is a blend of recycled and virgin down, then a Custom Material Blend should be created with the known ratio of recycled and virgin down.

d) Goose Down insulation

• Goose farming, conventional is the default selection for goose down and should be used unless goose down is certified and traceable as recycled content.
• Goose down, recycled should only be selected when the down source is certified and traceable as 100% recycled content.If the raw material content is a blend of recycled and virgin down, then a Custom Material Blend should be created with the known ratio of recycled and virgin down.

e) Sheep Wool insulation

• Wool, from sheep, fine-medium and superfine, Australia, for textile is the default selection for wool fibers and should be used unless using recycled wool fiber.
• Wool fiber, recycled from waste textile, for textiles should be selected when using mechanically recycled wool fiber. This process is modeled from waste textiles and includes collection and processing impacts.

 

Raw Material Processing

The Raw Material Processing Production Stage is an intermediate process where fibers are prepared for final finishing of the insulation material.

a) Polyester insulation

• Non-woven, melt spun or melt blown is the default process selection and should be used unless another raw material process is applicable. It should also be selected when melted polymer is extruded through small nozzles surrounded by high-speed blowing gas, causing a random mat of deposited fibers.
• Non-woven, water jet, for insulation material should be selected for fabrics where fibers are bonded together by using high-pressure water jets, which penetrate and bounce back into the fiber structure, causing the fibers to entangle.
• Spinning, microfibers (yarn size<1 DTEX), for insulation material should be used for insulations made with microfiber fibers (<1 DTEX).

b) Down insulation (Duck Down and Goose Down insulation)

Down processing, including washing, drying and sorting is the default process selection for both duck down and goose down. Any down source, including recycled down, that has a washing, drying, and/or sorting step should keep this process selected.

c) Sheep Wool insulation

• Scouring, natural fibers is the default process and should be used unless another process is applicable. In this process, the wool fibers are cleaned using water and surfactants as part of the insulation manufacturing.
• Carbonizing, natural fibers should be selected when the wool fiber has vegetable matter reduced to carbon and removed through the use of a sulfuric acid bath.

Finished Material Processing

This Production Stage is included in the Higg MSI as a placeholder for future additional finishing processes forInsulation materials. At this time, there are no processes to select from.

4. Leather

The Leather Material Category is composed of flexible materials made from the skin of an animal through tanning. Other artificial leather products are found in the Synthetic Leather Material Category.

Leather materials can be customized at the following Production Stages:

• Country of Origin and Process
• Tanning
• Re-Tanning
• Drying
• Leather Finishing

At minimum, the type of hide needs to be known to select an appropriate Leather Example Material in the Higg MSI.

There are five different Leather Example Materials that can be selected and customized:

• Bovine (cow) leather should be selected when hide for the leather is sourced from cows (bovine leather).
• Goat leather should be selected when hide for the leather is sourced from goats (caprine leather).
• Pig leather should be selected when hide for the leather is sourced from pigs.
• Kangaroo leather should be selected when hide for the leather is sourced from kangaroos.
• Reptile leather should be selected when hide for the leather is sourced from reptiles.

Country of Origin and Process

The Country of Origin and Process Production Stage covers the agriculture and animal husbandry stage for each material, through the initial processing in the slaughterhouse.

a) Bovine (Cow) Leather

• Bovine (cow) hides, global average {original allocation} should be used if no other process selection is applicable. This process is based on an average of equally weighted Bovine (cow) hides from Brazil and the US. Allocation to leather is 3.6%.

• Bovine (cow) hide, Brazil {original allocation} should be selected if the cattle are farmed and slaughtered in Brazil. Allocation to leather is 3.6%.

• Bovine (cow) hide, US {original allocation} should be selected if the cattle are farmed and slaughtered in the United States. Allocation to leather is 3.6%.

• Bovine (cow) hide {JBS and Asiatan}, Brazil should only be selected when using the “Kind Leather {Asiatan}, (includes tanning, re-tanning, drying, and finishing)” process in Tanning. This process represents the specific supply chain for Kind Leather from Brazil and should only be selected when combined with Kind Leather processing.

• Bovine (cow) hide {PrimeAsia}, from Steers (US and Australia) should only be selected when using the “Finished leather, from Steers (US and Australia) {PrimeAsia}, (includes tanning, re-tanning, drying, and finishing)” process in Tanning. This cow hide is also referred to as Prime Asia Group A (Steers).

• Bovine (cow) hide {PrimeAsia}, raw hides (South America) should only be selected when using the “Finished leather, from South American raw hides {PrimeAsia}, (includes tanning, re-tanning, drying, and finishing)” process in Tanning. This cow hide is also referred as Prime Asia Group B (South America).

• Bovine (cow) hide, Athletic Pigmented White Version 1 {Sadesa} should be selected when using Version 1 of the Athletic Pigmented White leather from SADESA S.A. This option represents cattle raised in Argentina. When selecting this material, the tanning process should be updated to ‘Athletic Pigmented White Version 1 {Sadesa} (includes tanning, re-tanning, drying, and finishing)’.

• Bovine (cow) hide, Athletic Pigmented White Version 2 {Sadesa} should be selected when using Version 2 of the Athletic Pigmented White leather from SADESA S.A. This option represents cattle raised in Argentina. When selecting this material, the tanning process should be updated to ‘Athletic Pigmented White Version 2 {Sadesa} (includes tanning, re-tanning, drying, and finishing)’.

• Bovine (cow) hide, Finished Pigmented Leather {Sadesa} should be selected when using Finished Pigmented leather from SADESA S.A. This option represents cattle raised in Uruguay. When selecting this material, the tanning process should be updated to ‘Finished Pigmented Leather {Sadesa} (includes tanning, re-tanning, drying, and finishing)’.

• Bovine (cow) hide, Crust Aniline Leather {Sadesa} should be selected when using Crust Aniline leather from SADESA S.A. This option represents cattle raised in Argentina. When selecting this material, the tanning process should be updated to ‘Crust Aniline Leather {Sadesa} (includes tanning, re-tanning, drying, and finishing)’.

• Bovine (cow) hide (Split), PU Coated Split Leather {Tong Hong} should be selected when using PU Coated Split cow leather from Tong Hong Tannery. When selecting this material, the tanning process should be updated to ‘Finished leather (Split), PU coated Split {Tong Hong} (includes tanning, re-tanning, drying, finishing)’.

• Bovine (cow) hide (Split), Split Suede {Tong Hong} should be selected when using Split Suede from Tong Hong Tannery. When selecting this material, the tanning process should be updated to ‘Finished leather (Split), Split Suede {Tong Hong} (includes tanning, re-tanning, drying, finishing)’.

• Bovine (cow) hide, Grain Split Leather {ISA TanTec} should be selected when using Grain Split cow leather from ISA TanTec LTD. When selecting this material, the tanning process should be updated to ‘Finished leather, Grain Split Leather {ISA TanTec} (includes tanning, re-tanning, drying, finishing)’.

• Bovine (cow) hide, Nubuck {Simona Tanning} should be selected when using Nubuck cow leather from Simona Tanning. When selecting this material, the tanning process should be updated to ‘Finished leather, nubuck {Simona Tanning} (includes tanning, re-tanning, drying, finishing)’, and select the corresponding empty processes for re-tanning, drying, and finishing.

• Bovine (cow) hide, full grain aniline {Simona Tanning} should be selected when using full grain cow leather from Simona Tanning. When selecting this material, the tanning process should be updated to ‘Finished leather, full grain aniline {Simona Tanning} (includes tanning, re-tanning, drying, finishing)’, and select the corresponding empty processes for re-tanning, drying, and finishing.

• Bovine (cow) hide {Alpharama Ltd} should only be selected when the cow hide is sourced from Alpharama Tannery.  When selecting this material, the tanning process should be updated to ‘Crust leather {Alpharama Ltd} (includes tanning, re-tanning, drying)’, and select the corresponding empty processes for re-tanning and drying.

• Bovine (cow) hide {Hoopoe Trading Ltd} should only be selected when the cow hide is sourced from Hoopoe Tannery. When selecting this material, the tanning process should be updated to ‘Tanning, chrome process {Hoopoe Trading Ltd}’.

• • Bovine (cow) hide, PU coated leather {XJ Leather Group} should only be selected when the cow hide is sourced from XJ Leather Group. This dataset describes bovine hide production. The model includes the cattle raising as well as the slaughtering.  When selecting this material, the tanning process should be updated to ‘Finished leather, PU coated {XJ Leather Group} (includes tanning, re-tanning, drying, finishing)’.

• Bovine (cow) hide, suede leather {XJ Leather Group} should only be selected when the suede leather is sourced from XJ Leather Group. This dataset describes bovine hide production. The model includes the cattle raising as well as the slaughtering.  When selecting this material, the tanning process should be updated to ‘Finished leather, suede {XJ Leather Group} (includes tanning, re-tanning, drying, finishing)’.

• Bovine (cow) hide, PU coated leather {Youngil Leather} should only be selected when PU coated leather is sourced from Youngil Leather. This dataset describes bovine hide production. When selecting this material, the tanning process should be updated to ‘Finished leather, PU coated {Youngil Leather} (includes tanning, re-tanning, drying)’.

• Bovine (cow) hide, pigmented full grain leather {Youngil Leather} should only be selected when full grain leather is sourced from Youngil Leather. This dataset describes bovine hide production. When selecting this material, the tanning process should be updated to ‘Finished leather, pigmented full grain {Youngil Leather} (includes tanning, re-tanning, drying)’.

• Bovine (cow) hide, suede split leather {Youngil Leather} should only be selected when suede leather is sourced from Youngil Leather. This dataset describes bovine hide production. When selecting this material, the tanning process should be updated to ‘Finished leather, suede split {Youngil Leather} (includes tanning, re-tanning, drying)’.

• Bovine (cow) hide, bio-based PU split leather {Youngil Leather} should only be selected when bio-based PU leather is sourced from Youngil Leather. This dataset describes bovine hide production. When selecting this material, the tanning process should be updated to ‘Finished leather, bio-based PU split {Youngil Leather} (includes tanning, re-tanning, drying)’.

• Bovine (cow) hide, water based PU coated split leather {Kuo Yuen Tannery} should only be selected when PU leather is sourced from Kuo Yuen Tannery. This dataset describes bovine hide production. When selecting this material, the tanning process should be updated to ‘Finished leather, water based PU coated split {Kuo Yuen Tannery} (includes tanning, re-tanning, drying, finishing)’.

Bovine (cow) hide, industry average leather is the default selection for cow leather and should be used unless another process selection is applicable. This dataset describes bovine hide production. Custom economic allocation factor of 1.46% applied based on primary data from the manufacturer. When this material is selected, the tanning process should be updated to ‘Finished leather, industry average (includes tanning, re-tanning, drying)’.

b) Goat Leather

Goat hides, global average is the default process selection for goat leather and is currently the only process selection available.

c) Pig Leather

Pig hides, global average is the default process selection for pig leather and is currently the only process selection available.

d) Kangaroo Leather

Kangaroo hide, Australia is the default process selection for kangaroo leather and is currently the only process selection available.

e) Reptile Leather

Python skin, Indonesia is the default process selection for reptile leather and is currently the only process selection available.

Tanning

The Tanning Production Stage covers the beamhouse processing and initial tanning (but does not include drying, dyeing,or finishing unless otherwise noted). All Leather Example Materials share several common Tanning process options. The plant-based materials category has no process options for this Production Stage, as all impacts are included in previous Production Stages.

• Tanning, chrome process is the default process selection for Tanning and should be used unless another Tanning process is applicable. Chrome tanning uses Chromium (III) compounds and the resulting leather is known as “wet blue.”
• Tanning, aldehyde process should be selected when the tanning uses aldehyde compounds.This process is considered an alternative to chrome tanning and the resulting leather is known as “wet white.”Other “wet white” processing compounds are possible. If the intermediate leather is considered “wet white,” then the Tanning, aldehyde processis considered to be the most representative proxy.
• Leather tanning, vegetable should be selected when the tanning is performed using traditional tanning techniques, where tannin compounds are extracted from plants.
• Kind Leather {Asiatan}, (includes tanning, re-tanning, drying, and finishing) should be selected only when using Kind Leather from Asiatan. This process contains the tanning, re-tanning, drying, and finishing impacts for Kind Leather and the applicable “Kind Leather” empty processes should be selected for these Production Stages. When selecting this process, it should be paired with the “Cow hide {JBS and Asiatan}, Brazil” process in the Country of Origin and Process Production Stage.
• Finished leather, from Steers (US and Australia) {PrimeAsia}, (includes tanning, re-tanning, drying, and finishing) should be selected only when using Cow Hide from Steers (US and Australia) from Prime Asia. This process contains the tanning, re-tanning, drying, and finishing impacts and the applicable “PrimeAsia” empty processes should be selected for these Production Stages. When selecting this process, it should be paired with the “Cow hide {PrimeAsia}, from Steers (US and Australia)” process in the Country of Origin and Process Production Stage.
• Finished leather, from South American raw hides {PrimeAsia}, (includes tanning, re-tanning, drying, and finishing) should be selected only when using Cow Hide, raw hides (South America) from Prime Asia. This process contains the tanning, re-tanning, drying, and finishing impacts and the applicable “PrimeAsia” empty processes should be selected for these Production Stages. When selecting this process, it should be paired with the “Cow hide {PrimeAsia}, raw hides (South America)” process in the Country of Origin and Process Production Stage.
• Tanning, chrome process, reptile leather is the default process selection for reptile leather and should only be selected when tanning reptile leather by chrome process.
• Athletic Pigmented White Version 1 {Sadesa} (includes tanning, re-tanning, drying, and finishing) should be selected only when using Cow hide, Athletic Pigmented White Version 1 from SADESA S.A. This process contains the tanning, re-tanning, drying, and finishing impacts for Athletic Pigmented White Version 1 and the applicable “{Sadesa}” empty processes should be selected for these Production Stages. 
• Athletic Pigmented White Version 2 {Sadesa} (includes tanning, re-tanning, drying, finishing) should be selected only when using Cow hide, Athletic Pigmented White Version 2 from SADESA S.A. This process contains the tanning, re-tanning, drying, and finishing impacts for Athletic Pigmented White Version 2 and the applicable “{Sadesa}” empty processes should be selected for these Production Stages. 
• Finished Pigmented Leather {Sadesa} (includes tanning, re-tanning, drying, finishing) should be selected only when using Cow hide, Finished Pigmented Leather from SADESA S.A. This process contains the tanning, re-tanning, drying, and finishing impacts for Finished Pigmented Leather and the applicable “{Sadesa}” empty processes should be selected for these Production Stages.
• Crust Aniline Leather {Sadesa} (includes tanning, re-tanning, drying, finishing) should be selected only when using Cow hide, Crust Aniline Leather from SADESA S.A. This process contains the tanning, re-tanning, drying, and finishing impacts for Crust Aniline Leather and the applicable “{Sadesa}” empty processes should be selected for these Production Stages
• Finished leather (Split), PU coated Split {Tong Hong} (includes tanning, re-tanning, drying, finishing) should be selected only when using Cow hide (Split), PU Coated Split Leather {Tong Hong}. This process contains the tanning, re-tanning, drying, and finishing impacts for Finished Pigmented Leather and the applicable “{Tong Hong}” empty processes should be selected for these Production Stages.
• Finished leather (Split), Split Suede {Tong Hong} (includes tanning, re-tanning, drying, finishing) should be selected only when using Cow hide (Split), Split Suede {Tong Hong}. This process contains the tanning, re-tanning, drying, and finishing impacts for Finished Pigmented Leather and the applicable “{Tong Hong}” empty processes should be selected for these Production Stages.
• Finished leather, Grain Split Leather {ISA TanTec} (includes tanning, re-tanning, drying, finishing) should be selected only when using Cow hide, Grain Split Leather {ISA TanTec}. This process contains the tanning, re-tanning, drying, and finishing impacts for Finished Pigmented Leather and the applicable “{ISA TanTec}” empty processes should be selected for these Production Stages.
• Finished leather, Nubuck {Simona Tanning} (includes tanning, re-tanning, drying, finishing) should be selected only when using Cow hide, Nubuck  from Simona Tanning. This process contains the tanning, re-tanning, drying, and finishing impacts, and the applicable “{Simona Tanning}” empty processes should be selected for these Production Stages.
• Finished leather, full grain aniline {Simona Tanning} (includes tanning, re-tanning, drying, finishing) should be selected only when using Cow hide, full grain aniline from Simona Tanning. This process contains the tanning, re-tanning, drying, and finishing impacts, and the applicable “{Simona Tanning}” empty processes should be selected for these Production Stages.
• Crust leather {Alpharama Ltd} (includes tanning, re-tanning, drying) should be selected only when using Cow hide from Alpharama Ltd. This process contains the tanning, re-tanning, and drying impacts, and the applicable “{Alpharama Ltd}” empty processes should be selected for these Production Stages.
• Tanning, chrome process {Hoopoe Trading Ltd} should be selected only when using Cow hide from Hoopoe Trading Ltd.
• Finished leather, PU coated {XJ Leather Group} (includes tanning, re-tanning, drying, finishing) should be selected only when using Bovine (cow) hide from XJ Leather Group. This process contains the tanning, re-tanning, drying, and finishing impacts, and the applicable “{XJ Leather Group}” empty processes should be selected for these Production Stages.
• Finished leather, suede {XJ Leather Group} (includes tanning, re-tanning, drying, finishing) should be selected only when using Bovine (cow) hide, suede from XJ Leather Group. This process contains the tanning, re-tanning, drying, and finishing impacts, and the applicable “{XJ Leather Group}” empty processes should be selected for these Production Stages.
• Finished leather, PU coated {Youngil Leather} (includes tanning, re-tanning, drying) should be selected only when using Bovine (cow) hide, PU coated leather {Youngil Leather}. This evaluation covers all tannery processes, starting on raw material, tanning and retanning, to be finished in Vietnam and Indonesia  This process contains the tanning, re-tanning, drying, and finishing impacts, and the applicable “{Youngil Leather}” empty processes should be selected for these Production Stages.
• Finished leather, pigmented full grain {Youngil Leather} (includes tanning, re-tanning, drying) should be selected only when using Bovine (cow) hide, pigmented full grain leather {Youngil Leather}. This evaluation covers all tannery processes, starting on raw material, tanning and retanning, to be finished in Vietnam. This process contains the tanning, re-tanning, drying, and finishing impacts, and the applicable “{Youngil Leather}” empty processes should be selected for these Production Stages.
• Finished leather, suede split {Youngil Leather} (includes tanning, re-tanning, drying) should be selected only when using Bovine (cow) hide, suede split leather {Youngil Leather}. This evaluation covers all tannery processes, starting on raw material, tanning and retanning, to be finished in Vietnam. This process contains the tanning, re-tanning, drying, and finishing impacts, and the applicable “{Youngil Leather}” empty processes should be selected for these Production Stages.
• Finished leather, bio-based PU split {Youngil Leather} (includes tanning, re-tanning, drying) should be selected only when using Bovine (cow) hide, bio-based PU split leather {Youngil Leather}. This evaluation covers all tannery processes, starting on raw material, tanning and retanning, to be finished in Vietnam. This process contains the tanning, re-tanning, drying, and finishing impacts, and the applicable “{Youngil Leather}” empty processes should be selected for these Production Stages.
• Finished leather, water based PU coated split {Kuo Yuen Tannery} (includes tanning, re-tanning, drying, finishing) should be selected only when using Bovine (cow) hide, water based PU coated split leather {Kuo Yuen Tannery}. This dataset covers the processing of finished leather for leather goods, footwear, garment, and gloves production. This evaluation covers all tannery processes, starting on raw material, tanning and retanning, to be finished in China and Vietnam. This process contains the tanning, re-tanning, drying, and finishing impacts, and the applicable “{Kuo Yuen Tannery}” empty processes should be selected for these Production Stages.
• Finished leather, industry average (includes tanning, re-tanning, drying) should be selected when using the default Bovine (cow) hide, industry average leather dataset. This dataset covers the processing of finished leather for footwear, automotive, upholstery, and leather goods production. This evaluation covers all tannery processes, starting on raw material, tanning and retanning, to be finished in several countries. This process contains the tanning, re-tanning, drying, and finishing impacts, and the applicable empty processes should be selected for these Production Stages.

Re-Tanning

The Re-Tanning Production Stage covers the further processing of tanned wet leather, including leather dyeing and fat liquoring, but not including drying or surface treatments. All Leather Example Materials share several common Re-Tanning process options. The plant-based materials category has no process options for this Production Stage, as all impacts are included in previous Production Stages.

• Leather finishing, 1 drum operation (dyeing, waterproofing or fatliquoring) is the default process selection and should be used unless another Re-Tanning process is applicable. This process covers the leather processing in a single rotating tanning drum.
• Leather finishing, 2 drum operations (dyeing, waterproofing or fatliquoring) should be selected when the processing of the leather involves two separate operations in rotating tanning drums.
• Leather finishing, 3 drum operations (dyeing, waterproofing or fatliquoring) should be selected when the processing of the leather involves three separate operations in rotating tanning drums. If more than three drum operations are required, this process should still be selected as the most representative option.
• Retanning Kind Leather {Asiatan} (impact contained in tanning stage) should be selected only when using Kind Leather from Asiatan that includes tanning, re-tanning, drying, and finishing. When selecting this process, it should be paired with the “Kind Leather {Asiatan}, (includes tanning, re-tanning, drying, and finishing)” process in the Tanning stage.
• Retanning {PrimeAsia} (impact contained in tanning stage) should be selected only when using Finished Leather from PrimeAsia that includes tanning, re-tanning, drying, and finishing. This process applies to both: Finished leather, from Steers (US and Australia) {PrimeAsia}, and Finished leather, from South American raw hides {PrimeAsia}.
• Finishing, 1 drum operation (dyeing, waterproofing or fatliquoring), reptile leather is the default process selection for reptile leather and should only be selected when finishing reptile leather.

Drying

The Drying Production Stage covers the drying of the leather. All Leather Example Materials share several common Drying process options. The plant-based materials category has no process options for this Production Stage, as all impacts are included in previous Production Stages.

• Leather hang drying is the default selection. The process covers hang drying, including stretching and clamping.
• Drying Kind Leather {Asiatan} (impact contained in tanning stage) should be selected only when using Kind Leather from Asiatan that includes tanning, re-tanning, drying, and finishing. When selecting this process, it should be paired with the “Kind Leather {Asiatan}, (includes tanning, re-tanning, drying, and finishing)” process in the Tanning stage.
• Drying {PrimeAsia} (impact contained in tanning stage) should be selected only when using Finished Leather from PrimeAsia that includes tanning, re-tanning, drying, and finishing. This process applies to both: Finished leather, from Steers (US and Australia) {PrimeAsia}, and Finished leather, from South American raw hides {PrimeAsia}.
• Drying, reptile leather is the default process selection for reptile leather and should only be selected when drying reptile leather.

Leather Finishing

The Leather Finishing Production Stage covers any additional surface treatments that are used to finish the leather. The Leather Finishing Production Stage is a multi-select stage and more than one processing option can be selected. All Leather Example Materials share the same Leather Finishing process options. The plant-based materials category has no process options for this Production Stage, as all impacts are included in previous Production Stages.

• Leather coating, polyurethane, for leather is the default process and should be selected unless it is known that no surface coating is applied to the leather. This process includes polymer surface treatments to make the leather hydrophobic.
• Brushing/buffing, for leather should be selected when the leather is brushed, buffed, or napped to create a softer hand feel. Suede and nubuck leathers are napped and/or buffed and should select this process option.
• Embossing, for leather should be selected when the leather is embossed using heat and/or pressure to create a surface pattern on the leather. This may be performed before or after other surface treatments such as Leather coating, polyurethane, for leather to further enhance the surface appearance.
• Painting, for leather should be selected when the surface of the leather is painted using pigments and/or paints to enhance or change the surface color.
• Waxing/oiling should be selected when a wax such as paraffin or an oil treatment is applied to increase water repellency and/or increase flexibility. The most common type of leathers that are oiled are vegetable tanned leathers and full grain aniline leathers.
• Finishing Kind Leather {Asiatan} (impact contained in tanning stage) should be selected only when using Kind Leather from Asiatan that includes tanning, re-tanning, drying, and finishing. When selecting this process, it should be paired with the “Kind Leather {Asiatan}, (includes tanning, re-tanning, drying, and finishing)” process in the Tanning stage.
• Finishing {PrimeAsia} (impact contained in tanning stage) should be selected only when using Finished Leather from PrimeAsia that includes tanning, re-tanning, drying, and finishing. This process applies to both: Finished leather, from Steers (US and Australia) {PrimeAsia}, and Finished leather, from South American raw hides {PrimeAsia}.

5. Metals

The Metals Material Category is composed of metals and metal alloys.

Metals can be customized at the following Production Stages:

• Raw Material Source
• Forming
• Finishing
• Chemistry Certifications

At minimum, the type of metal needs to be known to select an appropriate example material in the Higg MSI. In some cases, alloys are listed under a single Example Material (for instance, stainless steel is a processing option under the Steel Example Material)

There are fourteen different Metals Example Materials that can be selected and customized:

• Aluminum should be selected when using metallic aluminum or aluminum metal alloys.
• Brass should be selected when using brass alloys (copper and zinc).
• Chromium should be selected when using chromium metal or chromium alloys where chromium is the principal element.
• Copper should be selected when using copper or copper alloys where copper is the principal element, except for brass alloy.
• Gold should be selected when using gold or gold alloys where gold is the principal element.
• Iron should be selected when using cast iron (iron-carbon alloys suitable for casting due to relatively low melting point)
• Lead should be selected when using lead or lead alloys where lead is the principal element.
• Magnesium should be selected when using high purity magnesium or alloys where magnesium is the principal element.
• Nickel should be selected when using high purity nickel or nickel alloys where nickel is the principal element.
• Platinum should be selected when using platinum or platinum alloys where platinum is the principal element.
• Silver should be selected when using silver or silver alloys where silver is the principal element.
• Steel should be selected when using a carbon steel or a stainless steel alloy.
• Tin should be selected when using tin or tin alloys where tin is the principal element.
• Titanium should be selected when using titanium metal or titanium alloys where titanium is the principal element.
• Zinc should be selected when using zinc or zinc alloys where zinc is the principal element.

Raw Material Source

The Raw Material Source Production Stage covers the production of metals from mining the ore to refining the bulk metal or metal alloy. The following process options are available to customize Metal Example Materials:

a) Aluminium

• Aluminum, primary/virgin is the default process selection for virgin aluminum.
• Aluminum, secondary should be selected when using secondary/recycled aluminum.

b) Brass

• Brass, market mix is the default process selection for brass and is currently the only process selection available.

c) Chromium

• Chromium, primary/virgin is the default process selection for chromium and is currently the only process selection available.

d) Copper

• Copper, market mix is the default process selection for copper and is currently the only process selection available.

e) Gold

• Gold, primary/virgin is the default process selection for gold and is currently the only process selection available.

f) Iron

• Iron, market mix is the default process selection for iron and is currently the only process selection available.

g) Lead

• Lead, primary/virgin is the default process selection for lead and is currently the only process selection available.

h) Magnesium

• Magnesium, market mix is the default process selection for magnesium and is currently the only process selection available.

i) Nickel

• Nickel, primary/virgin is the default process selection for nickel and is currently the only process selection available.

j) Platinum

• Platinum, market mix is the default process selection for platinum and is currently the only process selection available.

k) Silver

• Silver, primary/virgin is the default process selection for silver and is currently the only process selection available.

l) Steel

• Steel billet, primary, blast furnace (BF) is the default process selection for steel and should be selected for primary/virgin steel except stainless steel.
• Steel billet, recycled, electric arc furnace (EAF) should be selected for recycled steel from ferrous scrap from steelworks, product manufacturers, and post-consumer scrap.
• Steel, cold rolled coil (includes forming) should be selected for steel passed through a cold rolling mill where the material is reshaped below the recrystallization temperature.

m) Tin

• Tin, primary/virgin is the default process selection for tin and is currently the only process selection available.

n) Titanium

• Titanium, primary/virgin is the default process selection for titanium and is currently the only process selection available.

o) Zinc

• Zinc, market mix is the default process selection for zinc and is currently the only process selection available.

Forming

The Forming Production Stage covers the forming of the metal into a useable part for product assembly.

• Die casting is the default process selection. This process covers the melting of the metal and the subsequent casting.
• Extrusion anodization, for metal this process should be selected when aluminum extrusions follow the anodization process.
• Drawing, for metal this process should be selected when metal is drawn on deep drawing machines, by pulling the work through a mold. Depending on the size of the parts to be produced and the amount of deep drawing steps, single step presses or transfer presses are used.
• Extrusion, for metal this process should be selected when aluminum profiles are produced through the extrusion process, where the work is pushed through the mold.
• Stamping and bending, for metal this process should be selected when metal sheets are stamped and folded into specific shapes.

In addition to the above metal forming process options, there are the following special processes for aluminum:

• 5 axis CNC {NEMO Equipment} should be selected when the process of removing material from an aluminum part is done using a 5 Axis CNC machine from NEMO equipment. This machine is unique because the drill bits are able to maneuver in more than one directional axis.

Finishing

The Metals Finishing Production Stage covers any additional surface treatments that are used to finish a metal part. The Metals Finishing Production Stage is a multi-select stage and more than one processing option can be selected. All Metals Example Materials share the same Finishing process options.

• Brushing/buffing, for metals is the default process selection. This process covers the mechanical polishing of the metal, whether matte finished, dull polished (brushed), or mirror finished. While this process is not intended to cover electropolishing or electroplating, using this process is still recommended for these finishing methods to avoid underrepresenting material impacts.
• Painting, for metals should be selected when the surface of the metal is painted with paints or lacquers to enhance or change the surface color.
• Powder coated should be selected when a powder coating is applied to the metal part. In this process, pigment and resin are electrostatically deposited on the part before being melted and fused in a curing oven.
• Blasting, for steel should be selected when attacking a steel surface using blasting agents like sand, rectangular cast iron or glass pearls to clean the surface of a material (remove paint, rust etc. from metal objects).
• Electrolytic galvanisation, for metals should be selected when a coating of pure zinc is deposited on the surface of a steel part through an electrolytic bath to prevent the metal from rusting.

6. Plastics

The Plastics Material Category is composed of thermoset and thermoplastic polymers.

Plastics can be customized at the following Production Stages:

• Raw Material Source
• Mixing/Preparation
• Molding/Curing

At minimum, the type of plastic polymer needs to be known to select an appropriate Example Material in the Higg MSI.

There are eighteen different Plastics Example Materials that can be selected and customized:

• Acrylonitrile butadiene styrene (ABS) plastic should be selected when using ABS plastic, composed of acrylonitrile, butadiene, and styrene monomers. Different ratios of the three monomers can have different material properties but should all still be classified as ABS plastic.
• Epoxy plastic should be selected when using an epoxy resin that cures into a thermoset plastic. All epoxy resins should select this example material, regardless of curing method or pre-polymers.
• Nylon/Polyamide plastic should be selected when using an amide-linked polymer.
• Poly(methyl methacrylate) (PMMA) (acrylic) plastic, fossil fuel based should be selected when using the transparent polymer resulting from the reaction of methyl methacrylate monomers. PMMA is also known as acrylic and plexiglass.
• Polycarbonate (PC) plastic should be selected when using transparent polymers linked through carbonate groups. The main monomer of the reaction is usually a phenol compound, such as bisphenol-A or bisphenol-S.
• Polyester plastic should be selected when using an ester-linked polymer, except for PLA, which is listed as a separate plastic type in the Higg MSI. Co-polyester plastics and plastic with resin identification code #1 (PET) are both classified as polyester plastics.
• Polyethylene (PE) plastic should be selected when using a plastic made through the polymerization of ethylene monomer units. Polyethylene can be low- or high-density (LDPE and HDPE). Plastics with either #2 (HDPE) or #4 (LDPE) resin identification codes are PE plastics.
• Polylactic Acid (PLA) plastic should be selected when the raw material type is a polymer composed of at least 85% by weight of lactic acid ester units derived from naturally occurring sugars.
• Polyoxymethylene (POM) plastic should be selected when using polyoxymethylene plastic, also known as acetal or polyformaldehyde, and composed primarily of anhydrous formaldehyde monomer.
• Polypropylene (PP) plastic should be selected when the raw material type is a long chain synthetic polymer composed of at least 85% by weight ofpropylene. Plastic with resin identification code #5 (PP) is a polypropylene plastic.
• Polystyrene (PS) plastic should be selected when using a plastic made through the polymerization of styrene monomer units. Plastic with resin identification code #6 (PS) is a polystyrene plastic.
• Polytetrafluoroethylene (PTFE) plastic should be selected when using a fluoropolymer composed of tetrafluoroethylene monomer.
• Polyvinyl Acetate (PVA) plastic should be selected when using the water-soluble polymer PVA, prepared through the hydrolysis of polyvinyl acetate monomers.
• Polyvinyl chloride (PVC) plastic should be selected when using polyvinyl chloride (PVC) plastic, composed primarily of vinyl chloride monomers. Soft PVC that contains plasticizers should also select PVC plastic.
• Silicone plastic should be selected when using silicone (polysiloxane) polymers, made of a variety of different siloxane monomers. When using silicone for its elastomeric properties (typical use case), silicone rubber should be selected from the Rubbers/Elastomers Material Category.
• Thermoplastic Polyurethane (TPU) plastic should be selected when using a polyurethane polymer that is thermoplastic (can be melted into a liquid). Thermoplastic Polyurethane (TPU) plastic is applicable to solid plastic parts. For thermoplastic polyurethane used in Textiles, Rubbers, or Foams, the appropriate Material Category should be selected.
• Thermoset Polyurethane (PU) plastic should be selected when using a polyurethane polymer that is a thermoset (cannot be melted into a liquid or re-formed). Thermoset Polyurethane (PU) plastic is applicable to solid plastic parts. For thermoset polyurethane used in Textiles, Rubbers, or Foams, the appropriate Material Category should be selected.
• Plastic fillers should be selected when filler particles are added to plastic to improve its properties, reduce costs, and make it lighter.

Raw Material Source

The Raw Material Source Production Stage covers the production of the plastic from extraction, through monomer creation, to a bulk commodity plastic material. The following process options are available to customize Plastics Example Materials:

a) Acrylonitrile butadiene styrene (ABS)

• Acrylonitrile butadiene styrene (ABS) plastic, fossil fuel based is the default process selection for ABS plastic and is currently the only process selection available.

b) Nylon/Polyamide plastic

• Nylon 6, fossil fuel based, for plastic is the default selection for nylon plastic and should be used unless a different nylon polymer process option from the following list is applicable.
• Nylon 6.6, fossil fuel based should be selected if the nylon polymer is known to be nylon 6,6. Nylon 6,6 is manufactured from two different monomers, hexamethylenediamine and adipic acid. This process should be selected for all nylon 6,6 polymer manufacturing.
• Nylon 12, fossil fuel based should be selected if the nylon polymer is known to be nylon 12. Nylon 12 is a long-chain nylon that is manufactured from either ω-aminolauric acid or laurolactam, depending on polymerization method. This process should be selected regardless of which nylon 12polymerization route is used.
• Nylon 4.10, EcoPaxX {DSM} should be selected when using EcoPaxX PA410 bio based polyamide from DSM.
• Nylon, mechanically recycled, for plasticshould be selected if the nylon polymer has come from a recycled source. This process should be selected for both mechanically recycled and chemically recycled nylon, as this is currently the closest proxy available.

c) Poly(methyl methacrylate) (PMMA)

• Poly(methyl methacrylate) (PMMA) (acrylic) plastic, fossil fuel based is the default process selection for PMMA plastic and is currently the only process selection available.

d) Polycarbonate (PC)

• Polycarbonate (PC) plastic, fossil fuel based is the default process selection for PC plastic should be used unless the PC plastic is known to be recycled content.
• Polycarbonate, recycled should be selected if the PC plastic is known to be mechanically recycled polycarbonate.

f) Polyethylene (PE)

• High density polyethylene (HDPE), fossil fuel based is the default process selection for PE plastic and should be selectedwhen using HDPE or when the specific grade of polyethylene is unknown.
• Low density polyethylene (LDPE), fossil fuel based should be selected when using an LDPE polymer.
• Polyethylene (PE), recycled, for plastic should be selected when using recycled PE plastic materials. Applies to both high density polyethylene (HDPE) and low density polyethylene (LPDE) recycled materials.

g) Polylactic Acid (PLA)

• Polylactic acid (PLA), bio-based, for plastic is the default process selection for PLA plastic and is currently the only process selection available.

h) Polyoxymethylene (POM)

• Polyoxymethylene (POM), for plastic is the default process selection for POM plastic and is currently the only process selection available. POM is also known as acetal.

i) Polypropylene (PP)

• Polypropylene (PP) plastic, fossil fuel based is the default process selection for PP plastic and should be used unless the PP plastic is known to be recycled content.
• Polypropylene (PP), recycled for plastic should be selected if the PP plastic is known to be mechanically recycled polypropylene.

j) Polystyrene (PS)

• Polysterene (PS) plastic, fossil fuel based is the default process selection for PS plastic and is currently the only process selection available.

k) Polytetrafluoroethylene (PTFE)

• Polytetrafluoroethylene (PTFE) plastic, fossil fuel based, for plastic is the default process selection for PTFE plastic and is currently the only process selection available.

l) Polyvinyl Acetate (PVA)

• Polyvinyl Acetate (PVA) plastic, fossil fuel based is the default process selection for PVA plastic and is currently the only process selection available.

m) Polyvinyl chloride (PVC)

• Polyvinyl chloride (PVC), fossil fuel based, for plastic is the default process selection for PVC plastic and is currently the only process selection available.

n) Silicone plastic

• Silicone, fossil fuel based, for plastic is the default process selection for silicone plastic and is currently the only process selection available.

o) Thermoset Polyurethane (TPU)

• Thermoset polyurethane (PU), fossil fuel based, for plastic is the default process selection for PU plastic and is currently the only process selection available.

p) Thermoplastic Polyurethane (TPU) plastic

• Thermoplastic polyurethane (TPU), hard polyether, fossil fuel based, for plastic is the default process selection for TPU plastic and should be used unless another TPU processing option is applicable.
• Elastollan® TPU resin {BASF} should be selected only when using Elastollan® TPU manufactured by BASF.
• Thermoplastic Polyurethane (TPU), recycled should be selected when using mechanically recycled polypropylene.

q) Plastic fillers

• Glass fiber is the default process selection for plastic fillers. It is the most widely used composition to produce continuous filament glass fibre.
• Carbon black should be selected when furnace blac, general-purpose carbon black is used. General purpose carbon black is used in tire production, and large-area or industrial coatings and paints.

r) Epoxy plastic

• Epoxy plastic, fossil fuel based is the default process selection for epoxy plastic and is currently the only process selection available.

Mixing/Preparation

The Mixing/Preparation stage covers the preparation of the plastic material for further processing. There is currently limited information for this Production Stage and the process option below is used for all Plastic materials.

• Master batch blending and compounding, plastics is the default selection and should be used unless there is no preparation step to mix the plastic compound. This process should remain selected regardless of mixing method. “None” should only be selected if there is no preparation and mixing process.

Molding/Curing

The Molding/Curing stage covers the physical forming of the plastic material to prepare it for use in product assembly. The following process option is applicable to all Plastic materials, with an additional option possible for PU plastic only, as noted below:

• Injection molding, for plastic is the default selection for all Plastic materials except Thermoset Polyurethane (PU) plastic. This process should be selected when the plastic material is prepared in liquid form and injected into a pre-made mold, cooled, then removed and trimmed.
• Molded, hot compression, for plastic this process should be selected when the plastic material is heated, and then placed into a heated mold and compressed.
• Blow molding, for plastic this process should be selected when the plastic material is extruded in a hose that is blown up in the mold.
• Extrusion, for plastic this process should be selected when the plastic granulate is plasticized in an extruder.
• Thermoforming, for plastic this process should be selected when the extruded profile is heated to its pliable temperature and pressed into the desired shape by using a mold.

The Thermoset Polyurethane (PU) plastic material has an additional Molding/Pouring process option:

• Pouring, bulk, for plastic is the default process selection for PU plastic and represents forming by bulk pouring.

7. Rubber/Elastomers

The Rubbers/Elastomers Material Category is composed of synthetic and natural elastic polymeric materials that can stretch and recover to their original shape. This Material Category applies to rubber and elastomer materials that are not foamed or converted into fibers. Materials that have these properties should be selected from the Foam and Textiles Material Categories respectively.

Rubbers/Elastomers can be customized at the following Production Stages:

• Raw Material Source
• Mixing/Preparation
• Molding/Curing
• Finishing

At minimum, the type of rubber or elastomer polymer needs to be known to select an appropriate Example Material in the Higg MSI.

There are fourteen different Rubbers/Elastomers Example Materials that can be selected and customized:

• Butyl rubber should be selected when using a synthetic rubber that is composed of a co-polymer of (primarily) isobutylene and isoprene. Butyl rubber is also known as isobutylene-isoprene rubber (IIR).
• Chloroprene rubber (Neoprene) should be selected when using a synthetic rubber that is composed of primarily chloroprene monomers. Chloroprene rubber is sometimes abbreviated as (CR) and is also known as polychloroprene rubber and Neoprene rubber.
• Ethylene Propylene Diene Elastomer (EPDM) rubber should be selected when using a synthetic rubber composed primarily of ethylene, propylene, and diene monomers.
• Foamed rubber should be selected when using a foamed version of polybutadiene rubber.
• Isoprene rubber (IR) should be selected when using a synthetic rubber composed primarily of isoprene monomers. Isoprene rubber is a synthetic version of natural rubber.
• Natural rubber (NR) should be selected when using a rubber created from latex from the rubber tree ( brasiliensis) and/or similar species. Natural rubber is also known as latex, latex rubber, and caoutchouc.
• Nitrile rubber (NBR) should be selected when using a synthetic rubber composed of acrylonitrile and butadiene monomers. Nitrile rubber is also known as acrylonitrile butadiene rubber.
• Polybutadiene rubber (BR) should be selected when using a synthetic rubber composed primarily of butadiene monomer.
• Silicone rubber should be selected when using a synthetic polysiloxane rubber composed of any of a variety of different siloxane monomers.
• Styrene-butadiene rubber (SBR) should be selected when using a synthetic rubber composed of styrene and butadiene monomers. This includes elastomers based on a styrene-butadiene block co-polymer structure.
• Thermoplastic Elastomer (TPE) should be selected when using any elastic thermoplastic compounds that do not otherwise fit into an existing Rubber/Elastomer Example Material. TPE can be based on many different polymer structures.
• Thermoplastic polyurethane (TPU) rubber should be selected when using a synthetic rubber composed of thermoplastic polyurethane.
• Thermoset polyurethane (PU) rubber should be selected when using a synthetic rubber composed of thermoset polyurethane.
• Typical footwear rubber compound should be selected when using a rubber footwear compound comprised of a blend of synthetic rubber, natural rubber, filler, and additives, and the exact composition is not known.

a) Butyl rubber

• Butyl rubber, fossil fuel based is the default process selection for butyl rubber and is currently the only process selection available.

b) Chloroprene rubber (Neoprene)

• Chloroprene rubber (Neoprene), fossil fuel based is the default process selection for chloroprene rubber and is currently the only process selection available.

c) Ethylene Propylene Diene Elastomer (EPDM) rubber

• Ethylene Propylene Diene Elastomer (EPDM) rubber, fossil fuel based is the default process selection for EPDM rubber and is currently the only process selection available.

d) Foamed rubber

• Foamed rubber, fossil fuel based is the default process selection for foamed rubber and is currently the only process selection available.

e) Isoprene rubber (IR)

• Isoprene Rubber (IR), fossil fuel based is the default process selection for isoprene rubber and is currently the only process selection available.

f) Natural rubber (NR)

• Natural rubber (latex), virgin is the default process selection for natural rubber and is currently the only process selection available.

g) Nitrile rubber (NBR)

• Nitrile Rubber (NBR), fossil fuel based is the default process selection for nitrile rubber and is currently the only process selection available.

h) Polybutadiene rubber (BR)

• Polybutadiene rubber (BR), fossil fuel based is the default process selection for polybutadiene rubber and should be used unless the rubber is known to be recycled content.
• Polybutadiene, recycled should be selected if the polybutadiene rubber is known to be mechanically recycled.

i) Silicone rubber

• Silicone, fossil fuel based, for rubber is the default process selection for silicone rubber and is currently the only process selection available.

j) Styrene-butadiene rubber (SBR)

• Styrene-butadiene rubber (SBR), fossil fuel based is the default process selection for SBR rubber and is currently the only process selection available.

k) Thermoplastic Elastomer (TPE)

• Thermoplastic elastomer (TPE), fossil fuel based is the default process selection for TPE rubber and is currently the only process selection available.

l) Thermoplastic polyurethane (TPU) rubber

• Thermoplastic polyurethane (TPU), soft polyether, fossil fuel based, for rubber is the default process selection for TPU rubber, and should be selected when using soft polyether based TPU.
• Thermoplastic polyurethane (TPU), soft polyester, fossil fuel based, for rubber this process should be selected when using soft polyester based TPU.

m) Thermoset polyurethane (PU) rubber

• Thermoset polyurethane (PU), fossil fuel based, for rubber is the default process selection for PU rubber and is currently the only process selection available.

n) Typical footwear rubber compound

• Typical footwear rubber compound is the default process selection for typical footwear rubber compound and is currently the only process selection available.

Mixing/Preparation

The Mixing/Preparation stage covers the preparation of the rubber material for further processing. There is currently limited information for this Production Stage and the process option can be used for all Rubber materials.

• Mixing, open mill, for rubber is the default selection and should be used unless there is no preparation step to mix the rubber compound. While the process is modeled as an open mill, it should remain selected regardless of mixing method. “None” should only be selected if there is no preparation and mixing process.

Molding/Curing

The Molding/Curing stage covers the physical forming of the rubber material to prepare it for use in product assembly. The process choices are applicable to all Rubber example materials:

• Injection molding, bulk is the default selection for all Rubber materials. This process should be used when the rubber material is in liquid form and injected into a pre-made mold, cooled, then removed and trimmed.
• Molding, hot compression should be selected when the rubber material is shaped by being placed into a heated mold and compressed.
• Pouring, bulk, for rubber should be selected when the rubber material is formed by bulk pouring.
• Vulcanization, for rubber should be selected when the rubber material is modified by vulcanization to improve physical properties. 

Finishing

The Rubber Finishing Production Stage covers any additional surface treatments that are used on the finished rubber part. All Rubber Example Materials share the same Finishing process options. The default selection for this Production Stage is “None” (no finishing step).

• Sidewall buffed should be selected when the rubber part is mechanically polished to give a smooth finish.

8. Synthetic Leather

Synthetic Leather is a Material Category composed of traditional leather alternatives that are manufactured from synthetic polymers. Typically, a fibrous substrate material has a polymer coating deposited into the three-dimensional fiber network. An additional surface layer of polymer can also be applied to change the appearance and the function of the resulting material.

Synthetic Leather materials can be customized at the following Production Stages:

• Substrate Raw Material
• PU Type
• Substrate Formation
• Production Process
• Specialty Application

There is currently only one Synthetic Leather Example Material that can be selected and customized. While there is only one Synthetic Leather Example Material, we are planning to enable more customization in the next Higg MSI data update.

• Polyurethane (PU) synthetic leather should be selected for all Synthetic Leather materials.

Subtrate Raw Material

The Substrate Raw Material Production Stage covers the raw material content of the Synthetic Leather substrate layer. The following process options are available:

• Synthetic leather substrate, 70% Polyester/30% nylon blend is the default process selection and should be used unless a different process option is applicable. The raw material content of this synthetic leather substrate option is a blend of 70% PET polyester and 30% nylon.  This process includes a range of options for 45%, 55%, 65% or 75% substrate on a mass basis. Please select a substrate process with corresponding percentages in the “PU Type” stage. 
• Polyethylene terephthalate (PET) substrate, mechanically recycled should be selected when the synthetic leather substrate is made of 100% recycled polyester. This process includes a range of options for 45%, 55%, 65% or 75% substrate on a mass basis. Please select a substrate process with corresponding percentages in the “PU Type” stage. 
• Nylon 6, fossil fuel based, synthetic leather substrate should be selected when the primary content (greater than 50%) of the synthetic leather substrate is nylon. This process includes a range of options for 45%, 55%, 65% or 75% substrate on a mass basis. Please select a substrate process with corresponding percentages in the “PU Type” stage. 
• Polyethylene terephthalate (PET) substrate, fossil fuel based, should be selected when the synthetic leather substrate is at least 90% polyester. Below this ratio, the “Synthetic leather substrate, 70% Polyester/30% nylon blend” is considered to be a more representative process selection to avoid underrepresenting material impacts. This process includes a range of options for 45%, 55%, 65% or 75% substrate on a mass basis. Please select a substrate process with corresponding percentages in the “PU Type” stage.
• Polyethylene terephthalate (PET) substrate, sea-island, fossil fuel based should be selected when the synthetic leather substrate is at least 90% polyester and the fibers are microfibers (under 1 denier in size) that are manufactured using the sea-island method. If the polyester is known to be microfiber polyester but the specific processing method is unknown, the “Polyethylene terephthalate (PET) substrate, splittable, fossil fuel based” option should be selected as the more conservative proxy. This process includes a range of options for 45%, 55%, 65% or 75% substrate on a mass basis. Please select a substrate process with corresponding percentages in the “PU Type” stage.
• Polyethylene terephthalate (PET) substrate, splittable, fossil fuel based should be selected when the synthetic leather substrate is at least 90% polyester and the fibers are microfibers (under 1 denier in size) that are not manufactured using the sea-island method. This process includes a range of options for 45%, 55%, 65% or 75% substrate on a mass basis. Please select a substrate process with corresponding percentages in the “PU Type” stage.
• None this is a placeholder empty process and should be selected when building a customized substrate blend. This process should be combined with a customized substrate and one of the 100% PU options on the “PU Type” stage. The steps to create a synthetic leather with a customized substrate are explained in the following video and the bullet points below:

1. Create a new custom material – choose material category: Synthetic Leather
2. Create a blend with the material you want as substrate and the synthetic leather example material e.g. 72% nylon (substrate), 28% synthetic leather (coating).
3. Customize the substrate raw material, e.g. change to recycled nylon, change from knit to non-woven, etc. Be sure to remove (deselect) steps not included in the substrate formation process, e.g. preparation, coloration, etc.
4. In the synthetic leather process, go to Substrate Raw Material stage and select none (as this is accounted for in the customized substrate created above).
5. Next, on the PU Type stage choose between PU or TPU coating and select the option that is 100% PU.
6. On the Substrate Formation stage, deselect any process selected (as this is also accounted for in the customized substrate created above).
7. Last, click the 3 dots beside the Synthetic Leather (equalizer icon) and change the Production Process line (e.g. Wet and Dry, Wet only, etc.) to apply to full blend.
8. Save as Draft or Final.

PU Type

The PU Type Production Stage covers the raw material content of the synthetic leather resin. The following process options are available:

• Leather coating, polyurethane, for synthetic leather is the default selection for Synthetic Leather Example Materials. It should be used unless another process is applicable. This process includes options for 25%, 35%, 45%, 55% and 100% PU. The appropriate substrate-to-PU ratio must be selected. 
• Leather coating, thermoplastic polyurethane (TPU) should be selected if the resin type of the PU layer is thermoplastic polyurethane. This process includes options for 25%, 35%, 45%, 55% and 100% PU. The appropriate substrate-to-PU ratio must be selected.
• Haptex non-solvent 2K PU synthetic leather (solvent based top coat) (55% substrate, 45% PU) {BASF} should be selected when using Haptex non-solvent 2K PU (solvent based top coat) from BASF. This process should be combined with the production process “Dry process, Haptex non-solvent 2K PU synthetic leather (solvent based top coat) {BASF}”.
• Haptex non-solvent 2K PU synthetic leather (water based top coat) (55% substrate, 45% PU) {BASF} should be selected when using Haptex non-solvent 2K PU (water based top coat) from BASF. This process should be combined with the production process “Dry process, Haptex non-solvent 2K PU synthetic leather (water based top coat) {BASF}” 
• Solvent based PU synthetic leather (45% substrate, 55% PU) {BASF} should be selected when using generic solvent based PU synthetic leather.
• Water based PU synthetic leather (55% substrate, 45% PU) {BASF} should be selected when using generic water based PU synthetic leather.

Substrate Formation

The Substrate Formation Production Stage covers the processing from the raw material content of the Synthetic Leather substrate into the physical substrate layer. The following process options are available:

• Non-woven, needle punching, for synthetic leather is the default process selection and should be used unless applying another applicable substrate formation method. In this default process, fibers are mechanically oriented and then bonded together by punching with thousands of barbed felting needles that are repeatedly passed in and out of the fiber web. When the substrate formation method does not match any of the available process options, this default process should still be used to avoid underrepresenting material impacts.
• Non-woven, water jet, for synthetic leather should be selected when using a non-woven substrate that is formed using hydroentanglement. In this process, the fibers are bonded together by using high-pressure water jets that penetrate and bounce back into the fiber structure, causing the fibers to entangle.

Production Process

The Production Process Production Stage covers the application of the polymer resin to the substrate material. The following process options are available:

• Wet and dry process is the default process and should be used unless another process is applicable. In this process, the substrate is coated with a resin, which is then coagulated in baths of dimethylformamide and water. At the same time, a layer of resin is applied to one side of the material using a release paper to create an additional layer for further function and aesthetic.
• Wet process only should be selected when the substrate is only coated with a resin, which is then coagulated in baths of dimethylformamide and water.
• Synthetic leather production, dry process only should be selected when the substrate is only coated with a layer of resin using a release paper, essentially laminating a polymer layer to the surface of the substrate.
• Dry process, Haptex non-solvent 2K PU synthetic leather (solvent based top coat) {BASF} should be selected when using the PU type Haptex non-solvent 2K PU (solvent based top coat) from BASF.
• Dry process, Haptex non-solvent 2K PU synthetic leather (water based top coat) {BASF} should be selected when using the PU type Haptex non-solvent 2K PU (water based top coat) from BASF.
• Wet and dry process, solvent-based PU synthetic leather {BASF} should be selected when using generic solvent based PU synthetic leather.
• Wet and dry process, water-based PU synthetic leather {BASF} should be selected when using generic water based PU synthetic leather.

Specialty Application

The Specialty Application Production Stage covers any additional surface treatments to the Synthetic Leather material. The following process options are available:

• Hydrolysis, synthetic leather coating, polyurethane is the default process selection and should be used unless it is known that the process is not applied. In this process, a hydrolysis resistant layer is added to the surface of the synthetic leather.
• Water repellancy (C6, C8, PFC-free) should be selected if a water repellency treatment is applied to the surface of the synthetic leather.
• Waterproofing (C6, C8, PFC-free) should be selected if a waterproofing treatment is applied to the surface of the synthetic leather. This process is a heavier application of water repellency treatment. The Waterproofing and Water repellency processes are very similar. If it is not known which to use, the Water repellency treatment is considered to be more common and should be selected.

9. Textiles

Textiles is a material category composed of flexible materials made from natural and synthetic fibers. Textiles can be very diverse, with different materials and yarns commonly blended together into a single textile material.

At minimum, the primary raw material content (also known as material or fiber content) needs to be known to select an appropriate textile material option in the Higg MSI. If raw material content is the only aspect of the material known, then the Example Materials can be used without further customization. When the main Textile Formation method of a material is also known, that information should be used to customize the material, to more accurately model the impacts on other Production Stages.

Textiles can be customized at the following Production Stages:

• Raw Material Source
• Yarn Formation Method
• Textile Formation
• Preparation
• Coloration
• Additional Coloration and Finishing

There are twenty-three different Example Materials in the Textiles category that can be selected and customized.  These can be differentiated primarily by raw material source. Each raw material source can further be customized in the Raw Material Source Production Stage.

• Acetate, Triacetate fabric should be selected when the raw material type is an acetylated regenerated cellulosic (cellulose acetate). This includes both acetate and triacetate fibers.
• Acrylic fabric should be selected when the raw material type is an acrylic fiber, including modacrylic. Both acrylic and modacrylic are synthetic polymers that use an acrylonitrile monomer.
• Alpaca fabric should be selected when the raw material type is fiber sourced from the fleece of any breed of alpaca, including Huacaya and Suri.
• Aramid fabric should be selected when the raw material type is a synthetic polyamide material where at least 85% of the amide bonds are directly attached to two aromatic rings.
• Carbon fiber fabric should be selected when the resulting fiber is a carbon fiber, regardless of the raw material type used as the input into the carbonization process.
• Cotton fabric should be selected when the raw material type is a natural fiber from the cotton plant ().
• Elastane/Spandex fabric should be selected when the raw material type is an elastane/spandex fiber. Elastane/spandex is a long chain synthetic polymer comprised of at least 85% of a segmented polyurethane which has high (>100%) stretch and recovery functionality.
• Flax fiber fabric should be selected when the raw material type is a natural bast fiber from the flax plant (). Flax fiber fabric is also commonly called linen.
• Glass fiber fabric should be selected when the raw material type of the fiber forming substance is glass.
• Hemp fiber fabric should be selected when the raw material type is a natural bast fiber from the hemp plant (Cannabis sp.)
• Jute fiber fabric should be selected when the raw material type is a natural bast fiber from the jute plant (Corchorus sp.).
• Lyocell fabric should be selected when the fiber is a regenerated cellulosic made using direct dissolution (no substitution of the hydroxyl groups and no chemical intermediates)in the organic solvent N-MethylmorpholineN-oxide (NMMO).
• Modal fabric should be selected when the fiber is a high wet modulus regenerated cellulosic manufactured through a modified viscose process.
• Nylon fabric should be selected when the raw material type is a synthetic polyamide polymer, where less than 85% of the amide bonds are directly attached to two aromatic rings. Nylon fabric is applicable for all polyamides besides those that are classified as aramid fabric.
• Novel Polysaccharide fabric should be selected when the raw material type is an enzymatic polysaccharide.
• Polyester fabric should be selected when the raw material type is the synthetic polymer polyethylene terephthalate (PET) or elasterell-p. Elasterell-p is an inherently elastic, bicomponent fiber consisting of two substantially different forms of polyester, also referred to as “T400.” Other specialty polyesters, including polytrimethylene terephthalate and polylactic acid are found in other material types in this list.
• Polylactic Acid (PLA) fabric should be selected when the raw material type is a polymer composed of at least 85% by weight of lactic acid ester units derived from naturally occurring sugars.
• Polyethylene (PE) fabric should be selected when the fiber is made of either low or high density polyethylene.
• Polypropylene (PP) fabric should be selected when the raw material type is a long chain synthetic polymer composed of at least 85% by weight ofpropylene. For now, other olefin fabrics such as polyethylene fabric should select polypropylene fabric as the closest proxy.
• Polytrimethylene Terephthalate (PTT) fabric should be selected when the raw material type is a polyester where the glycol is at least 90 mole percent 1,3-propanediol. Polytrimethylene terephthalate (PTT) fabric is also known as triexta fabric.
• Polyurethane (PU) fabric should be selected when the raw material type is a polyurethane polymer that doesn’t otherwise classify as elastane/spandex. This can include thermoplastic polyurethanes.
• Silk fabric should be selected when the raw material type is protein fiber and most commonly obtained from the cocoons of silkworms.
• Viscose/Rayon fabric should be selected when the fiber is a regenerated cellulosic manufactured through the viscose process.
• Wool fabric should be selected when the raw material type is fiber sourced from the fleece of any breed of sheep (Ovis sp.). For now, specialty wools other than alpaca should be selected as wool fabric.

If a material has more than one type of raw material, then create a blend of each constituent part, beginning with each constituent part’s respective raw material type. For instance, a cotton/polyester material would be created with two constituent parts, starting by customizing both a cotton material and a polyester material. The percentages of each blend component can be specified afterward, in the final material.

Raw Material Source

Within each of the Textile material types there can be multiple raw material source options available to further customize a material.

If only the general fiber type is known, then the default selection should be left unchanged.

a) Acetate, Triacetate Fabric

• Acetylated and regenerated cellulose, from pine, spruce or cotton linters is the default selection for acetate and triacetate fibers and should be selected unless using one of the listed branded acetate or triacetate fibers.
• Cellulosic Filament Yarn, Naia {Eastman} (includes yarn formation) should be selected when using Naia™ filament yarn. When selecting this option, make sure you update the Yarn Formation Method to “none”.
• Cellulosic Fiber, Naia {Eastman} should be selected when using Naia™ staple fiber.
• Cellulosic Filament Yarn, Naia Renew {Eastman} (includes yarn formation)should be selected when using Naia™ Renew (acetyl from recycled waste plastics) filament yarn. When selecting this option, make sure you update the Yarn Formation Method to “none”.
• Cellulosic Fiber, Naia Renew {Eastman} should be selected when using Naia™ Renew (acetyl from recycled waste plastics) staple fiber.

b) Acrylic Fabric

• Polyacrylonitrile, fossil fuel based, for textiles is the default selection for acrylic polymer and should be selected for all acrylic fabrics.
• Radianza Fiber {BIRLA} (includes preparation and coloration) should be selected when using Radianza™ fiber. The impacts shown in this process include preparation and coloration.
• Regel™, recycled acrylic fiber {Thai Acrylic Fibre Co. Ltd} should be selected when using Regel™ fiber. This fiber is made from virgin and waste polymer and is a GRS certified acrylic fibre.
• Acrylic tow {AKSA}  should be selected when the Raw Material Source is acrylic tow manufactured by AKSA. The AKSA manufacturing process is based on a wet spinning process. This process should be selected for either of Aksa’s ecru or coloured acrylic tow.

c) Alpaca Fabric

• Alpaca fleece, pasture raised is the default selection for alpaca fibers and should be selected for all alpaca fabrics.

d) Aramid Fabric

• Aromatic polyamide, aramids is the default selection for aramid polymer and should be selected for all aramid fabrics.

e) Carbon Fiber Fabric

• Polyacrilonitrile (PAN), fossil fuel based is the default selection as the raw material source to make carbon fibers. It should be selected for homopolymer polyacrylonitrile and polyacrylonitrile co-polymers.
• Viscose/Rayon (generic), regenerated cellulose from wood pulp should be selected when the raw material source of the carbon fiber is derived from cellulosic fibers.

f) Cotton Fabric

• Cotton fiber, conventional production is the default selection for cotton fabric and should be selected unless using one of the other cotton fiber types identified below. This process represents a global average for conventional cotton production.  This dataset is based on the original cotton LCA methodology developed by Sphera. It does not conform to the Cascale Cotton LCA Methodology (2024), and direct comparison of results between the two methodologies is not supported.
• Cotton fiber, Cotton made in Africa (CmiA) should be selected if the cotton fiber meets the requirements of the Cotton made in Africa program. This dataset is based on the original cotton LCA methodology developed by Sphera. It does not conform to the Cascale Cotton LCA Methodology (2024), and direct comparison of results between the two methodologies is not supported.
• Cotton fiber, organic should be selected if the cotton fiber meets the requirements of organic certification, such as industry standards including the Global Organic Textile Standard (GOTS) and the Organic Content Standard (OCS). This dataset is based on the original cotton LCA methodology developed by Sphera. It does not conform to the Cascale Cotton LCA Methodology (2024), and direct comparison of results between the two methodologies is not supported.
• Recover™ recycled cotton (RPure) {Recover} should be selected only if mechanically recycled cotton fibers from Recover® are being used.
• Cotton fiber, recycled should be selected when using mechanically recycled cotton fibers, other than when they are from a listed branded option.
• Cotton fiber, recycled {Usha Yarn Ltd.} should be selected when using recycled cotton fom Usha Yarn Ltd. When selecting this process, the yarn formation process should be updated to ‘Spinning, recycled yarns, open end (rotor) (250 DTEX-225 denier-24/1 Ne-40 Nm) {Usha Yarns Ltd}’.
• Cotton fiber, recycled (Second Life) {Soorty} should be selected when using the recycled post-consumer waste cotton fibers from Soorty Enterprises, Ltd
• Cotton fiber {Better Cotton} (India) should only be selected if the cotton fiber is from India and sourced through the Better Cotton program. This dataset only covers aspects of the environmental footprint. Other sustainability metrics set forth by the Better Cotton program -like the efforts on decent work and sustainable livelihoods- are not included. This dataset is modelled with Cascale Cotton LCA Methodology (2024).
• Cotton fiber {Cotton Australia} should only be selected if Australian Cotton is being used. Australian cotton is represented by the Cotton Research and Development Corporation (CRDC) and Cotton Australia. Cotton Australia’s responsibilities include on-farm sustainability implementation, and engagement with the supply chain including brands and retailers.  This dataset is modelled with Cascale Cotton LCA Methodology (2024).
• Cotton fiber {US Cotton Trust Protocol} should only be selected if the cotton fiber is sourced through the U.S. Cotton Trust Protocol program. This dataset only covers aspects of the environmental footprint. Other sustainability metrics set forth by the USCTP program -such as the emphasis on worker well-being, high labor standards, and support to grower education for sustainable practices- are not included.  This dataset is modelled with Cascale Cotton LCA Methodology (2024).

g) Elastane/Spandex Fabric

• Spandex fiber {The LYCRA Company}, contains data for yarnformation/spinning is the default selection for spandex and elastane fibers. It should be selected as the best proxy for all spandex and elastane fibers.
• Creora® bio-based spandex {Hyosung}, (includes yarn formation) should be selected when using Creora® bio-based spandex from Hyosung. The default yarn spinning process is already an empty process and does not need to be updated.

h) Flax Fiber Fabric

• Flax fiber (linen), average production is the default selection for flax fiber and should be used unless the specific retting process is known. If the retting process is known but is not dew or warm water retting, then the default selection (average production) should be used.
• Flax fiber (linen), dew retted should be used if the flax fiber is known to have come from a source that practices dew retting.
• Flax fiber (linen), warm water retted should be used if the flax fiber is known to have come from a source that uses a warm water retting process.
• Flax Fiber {Bast Fiber Tech}, Belgium should be used when bast fibers (including flax and hemp) are processed using Bast Fiber Tech’s proprietary wet processing technology to create a refined flax or hemp fiber.
• Flax hackled long fiber (linen) {European Flax® certified} should be selected when using certified European Flax®.

i) Glass Fiber Fabric

• Glass fiber is the default selection for glass fibers and should be selected for all glass fiber fabrics.

j) Glass Fiber Fabric

• Hemp fiber, average production (long fiber for wet spinning) is the default selection for hemp fiber and should be used unless the specific retting process is known. If the retting process is known but is not dew or warm water retting, then the default selection (average production) should be used.
• Hemp fiber, dew retted (long fiber for wet spinning) should be used if the hemp fiber is known to have come from a source that practices dew retting.
• Hemp fiber, warm water retted (long fiber for wet spinning) should be used if the hemp fiber is known to have come from a source that uses a warm water retting process.
• Agraloop Oilseed Hemp BioFibre Refined + (cottonized) {Circular Systems} should only be used if the hemp fiber is Agraloop BioFibre™ from Circular Systems. When selecting this process, the yarn spinning production stage needs to be updated to a “cottonized” yarn spinning process.
• Agraloop™ CBD Hemp BioFibre™ Dry Refined (cottonized) {Circular Systems} should only be used when using CBD Hemp BioFibre™ Dry Refined derived from dual-purpose hemp from Circular Systems. When selecting this process, the yarn spinning production stage needs to be updated to a “cottonized” yarn spinning process.
• Marmara Original® hemp fiber (cottonized) {The Flax Company} should only be used when using Marmara Hemp fibre from The Flax Company. When selecting this process, the yarn spinning production stage needs to be updated to a “cottonized” yarn spinning process.

k) Jute Fiber Fabric

• Jute fibers is the default selection for jute fibers and should be selected for all jute fiber fabrics.

l) Lyocell Fabric

• Lyocell (generic), regenerated cellulose from wood pulp is the default selection for lyocell fibers and should be selected unless using a listed branded lyocell fiber.
• TENCEL® {Lenzing} should be selected when using Tencel™ Lyocell fibres.
• TENCEL™ Lyocell Filament {Lenzing} (includes yarn formation) should be selected when using TENCEL™ Lyocell filament produced by Lenzing group. This filament process should be combined with appropriate downstream process stages including the empty process for “Spinning, TENCEL™ Lyocell Filament {Lenzing} (empty process, impacts contained in raw material process)”, knitting, coloration and finishing to create a TENCEL™ Luxe fabric scenario.
• TENCEL™ Lyocell with REFIBRA™ technology {Lenzing} should be selected when using TENCEL™ Lyocell fibers made with REFIBRA™ technology by Lenzing Group. This fiber process should be combined with appropriate downstream process stages such as spinning, knitting, coloration and finishing to create a TENCEL™ x REFIBRA™ Lyocell fabric scenario.
• GreenCell Lyocell {AceGreen} (includes yarn formation) should be selected when using GreenCell® (Lyocell filament) produced by AceGreen in Taiwan. This process includes yarn formation with a range of 50-300 denier.
• Lyocell, regenerated cellulose from eucalyptus wood pulp {Sateri}  should only be selected when the Raw Material Source is Lyocell made from wood pulp sourced from sustainable plantations produced by Sateri.

m) Lyocell Fabric

• Modal (generic), regenerated cellulose from wood pulp is the default selection for modal fibers and should be selected unless using a listed branded modal fiber.
• TENCEL™ Modal {Lenzing} should be selected when using Tencel™ Modal fibres, unless the fibers are dope dyed, in which case TENCEL™ Modal Eco Color (color/black) {Lenzing}should be selected instead.
• TENCEL™ Modal Eco Color (color/black) {Lenzing} should be selected when using Tencel™ Modal fibres that are dope dyed. This includes Lenzing™ Modal Black and Modal Color. Note that this process stage does not include the impacts of the dope dyeing process and the Dope Dyeing for TENCEL™ Modal Eco Color (color/black) {Lenzing} process needs to be selected for the Coloration Production Stage.
• Livaeco™ Modal Fibre {BIRLA} should be selected when using Livaeco™ Modal fiber from Birla Cellulose.
• LENZING™ FR {Lenzing} should be selected when using LENZING™ FR fiber (flame-resistant cellulosic fiber based on Modal fiber production process) produced by Lenzing Group. This fiber process should be combined with appropriate downstream process stages such as spinning, knitting, and finishing to create a Modal fabric scenario.

n) Nylon Fabric

• Nylon 6, fossil fuel based, for textile production is the default selection for nylon polymer. Nylon 6 is the most common type of nylon used in textiles and should be selected unless a different nylon polymer type is more representative, as described in this section.
• Nylon, mechanically recycled should be selected if the nylon polymer has come from a recycled source, except in instances where the supplier is known and noted in this section. This process should be selected for both mechanically recycled and chemically recycled nylon, as this is currently the closest proxy available.
• Nylon 6.6, fossil fuel based, for textile production should be selected if the nylon polymer is nylon 6,6. Nylon 6,6 is manufactured from two different monomers, hexamethylenediamine and adipic acid. This process should be selected for all nylon 6,6 polymer manufacturing except where the nylon 6,6 manufacturer is known and noted in this section.
• Nylon 6.6, recycled (Fulgar Q-NOVA- contains data for yarn formation/spinning) should be selected when using Q-NOVA® recycled nylon 6,6 from Fulgar®. When selecting this option, make sure you update the Yarn Formation Method to “Spinning, recycled PA 6.6 {Fulgar Q-NOVA} (empty process, impact contained in raw material stage)”.
• Nylon 4.10, EcoPaxX {DSM} should be selected when using EcoPaxX PA410 bio based polyamide from DSM.
• Nylon 6.6, Amni Soul Eco {Solvay Group}, Brazil should be selected when using Amni Soul Eco® nylon 6,6 developed by the Solvay Group. When selecting this option, make sure you update the Yarn Formation Method to “Spinning, Amni Soul Eco {Solvay} (empty process, impact contained in raw material stage)”.
• Ultramid B {BASF} should be selected when using Ultramid® Polyamide from BASF, unless using the Biomass Balance version, in which case Ultramid B BMB (biomass balance) {BASF} should be selected instead.

o) Novel Polysaccharide fabric

• SenLoft™ fiber (pre-commercial), enzymatic polysaccharide, bio-based {IFF} (includes yarn formation} is the default selection for Novel Polysaccharide fabric. This is a novel (pre-commercial) Engineered Polysaccharide (EPS) process produced through enzymatic polymerization. This process contains the impacts of yarn formation, and thus you should select the ‘Spinning, continuous filament (dry) {IFF} (empty process, impact contained in raw material stage)’ in the yarn formation step.

p) Plastic FIllers

• Glass fiber is the default process selection for plastic fillers. It is the most widely used composition to produce continuous filament glass fibre.
• Carbon black should be selected when furnace blac, general-purpose carbon black is used. General purpose carbon black is used in tire production, and large-area or industrial coatings and paints.

q) Polyester Fabric

• Polyethylene terephthalate (PET), fossil fuel based is the default selection for PET polymer. PET is the most common type of polyester used in textiles and should be selected unless a different polyester polymer type is more representative, as described in this section. This process models PET manufacturing via the ethylene glycol and terephthalic acid synthesis route.
• Polyethylene terephthalate (PET), mechanically recycled, for textilesshould be selected if the PET polymer is converted from mechanically recycled PET bottle flakes to recycled PET pellets before being converted into PET fiber. If the specific recycling technology is unknown, this mechanical recycling process is the most likely processing type and should be selected.
• Polyethylene terephthalate (PET) {Toray}, partially bio-based should be selected if the PET polymer is manufactured by Toray and is partially (30%) bio-based (ethylene glycol derived from sugarcane molasses). This process is currently the best proxy for all bio-based PET in the Higg MSI and should be selected for any bio-based PET.
• Ground to Good™- recycled PET Flakeshould be selected if the PET polymer is known to be Thread International’s Ground to Good™ recycled PET.
• Polyethylene terephthalate (PET), semi-mechanically recycled should be selected if the PET polymer is converted from mechanically recycled PET bottle flakes to recycled PET pellets before being converted into PET fiber. In this process, an additional ethylene glycol treatment is used to purify the polymer.
• Polyethylene terephthalate (PET), chemically (BHET) recycled should be selected if the PET polymer is chemically depolymerized via a glycolysis process. In this production method, Bis(2-Hydroxyethyl) terephthalate (BHET) will be the primary intermediate oligomer that is produced. After depolymerization, the BHET is filtered and re-polymerized back into PET. This process may be selected for any PET chemical recycling where a glycolysis reaction is the primary depolymerization route.
• Polyethylene terephthalate (PET), chemically (methanolysis) recycled, for textiles should be selected if the PET polymer is chemically depolymerized via a methanolysis process. In this production method, PET is converted into dimethyl terephthalate (DMT) and ethylene glycol monomers. These are then re-polymerized back into PET.  This process is the best proxy for PET chemical recycling that uses hydrolysis (depolymerization to terephthalic acid and ethylene glycol) and other alcoholysis depolymerization routes. This process should also be selected for polyester raw material content that is known to be chemically recycled but does not have the specific technology disclosed.
• LYCRA® T400 EcoMade Fiber {The LYCRA Company}, (includes yarn formation) should be selected when using T400 EcoMade bicomponent stretch polyester (elasterell-p) from The LYCRA Company. This process is the closest proxy for all elasterell-p polyester and may be selected when using any elasterell-p fiber. The impacts shown in this process include yarn formation and Melt spinning with texturing, {The LYCRA Company} empty process, impacts contained in raw material process) should be selected as the Yarn Formation Method.
• Repreve® Yarn, {Unifi Manufacturing Inc} (includes extrusion/spinning + texturing) should be selected when using REPREVE® Polyester Yarn from Unifi Manufacturing Inc. The impacts shown in this process include Extrusion/spinning and texturizing. Extrusion/spinning and texturizing {REPREVE®} (empty process) should be selected as the Yarn Formation Method.
• Repreve® Resin (chip), {Unifi Manufacturing Inc} should be selected when using REPREVE® resin [chip] from Unifi Manufacturing Inc.
• Polyethylene terephthalate (PET) plastic, mechanically recycled {Nan Ya Plastics} should be selected when using mechanically recycled PET produced by Nan Ya Plastics. This fiber process should be combined with the appropriate Nan Ya Plastics downstream processes such as thermal drawing and texturizing, and spinning for mechanically recycled PET.
• Polyethylene terephthalate (PET) plastic, chemically recycled {Nan Ya Plastics} should be selected when using chemically recycled PET produced by Nan Ya Plastics. This fiber process should be combined with the appropriate Nan Ya Plastics downstream processes such as thermal drawing and texturizing, and spinning for chemically recycled PET.

r) Polyethylene (PE) Fabric

• High density polyethylene (HDPE), fossil fuel based is the default process selection for PE fabric and should be selected when using HDPE or when the specific grade of polyethylene is unknown.
• Low density polyethylene (LDPE), fossil fuel based should be selected when using an LDPE polymer.
• Polyethylene (PE), recycled, for textile should be selected when using mechanically recycled Polyethylene. This process can be used for recycled LDPE or HDPE.

s) Polylactic Acid (PLA) fabric

• Polylactic acid (PLA), bio-based, for textile sis the default selection for polylactic acid (PLA) polymer and should be selected for all polylactic acid (PLA) fabrics.

t) Polypropylene (PP) Fabric

• Isotactic polypropylene (PP), Fossil fuel based is the default selection for polypropylene polymer and should be selected for all conventional production.
• Polypropylene (PP), recycled, for textile should be selected if using mechanically recycled polypropylene polymer.

u) Polytrimethylene Terephthalate (PTT) fabric

• Sorona polymer {DuPont}, bio-based is the default selection for PTT polymer. This process is currently the best proxy for all sources of PTT polymer in the Higg MSI.

v) Polyurethane (PU) Fabric

• Thermoset polyurethane (PU), fossil fuel based, for textiles is the default selection for polyurethane polymer and should be selected for all PU fabrics unless using Freeflex™ TPU Resin.
• Freeflex™ TPU Resin {BASF} for textile should only be selected when known to be using the Freeflex™ TPU resin from BASF.
• Thermoplastic polyurethane (TPU), hard polyether, fossil fuel based, for textiles should be selected when using hard polyether based TPU.
• Thermoplastic polyurethane (TPU), soft polyester, fossil fuel based, for textiles should be selected when using soft polyester based TPU.
• Thermoplastic polyurethane (TPU), soft polyether, fossil fuel based, for textiles should be selected when using soft polyether based TPU.

w) Silk Fabric

• Silk, raw, from silkworm is the default selection for raw silk and should be selected for silk fabrics.

x) Viscose/Rayon Fabric

• Viscose/Rayon (generic), regenerated cellulose from wood pulp is the default selection for viscose rayon fibers and should be selected unless using a listed branded viscose fiber or the pulp source is known to be bamboo.
• LENZING™ ECOVERO™ Viscose  should be selected when using ECOVERO™ viscose fiber produced by Lenzing™. This process is representative for all ECOVERO™ production.
• Regenerated cellulose, from bamboo should be selected for viscose rayon fibers are manufactured using cellulose pulp derived from bamboo fiber.
• Livaeco by Birla Cellulose™ Viscose Staple Fiber {BIRLA Cellulose} should be selected when using LivaEco traceable viscose fiber produced by Birla Cellulose.  This dataset is representative of Birla’s Asia production regions (China, India, Thailand).
• ENKA® Viscose {ENKA} (includes yarn formation) should be selected when using ENKA viscose filament yarns. When selecting this process, the yarn formation process should be updated to ‘Spinning, ENKA® Viscose {ENKA} (empty process, impacts contained in raw material process)’ to avoid double counting impacts.
• Livaeco™ Spun-dyed Viscose Staple Fiber {BIRLA} (includes coloration) should be selected when using dope dyed Livaeco™ fiber from Birla Cellulose. When selecting this process, the dyeing process should be updated to “Dope dyeing for Livaeco Spun-dyed Viscose Staple Fiber {BIRLA} (empty process) to avoid double counting impacts”
• Purocel Eco Viscose {BIRLA Cellulose} should be selected when using Purocel™ Eco Viscose fiber produced by Birla Cellulose.
• CORONA™ viscose fiber {Daiwabo Rayon} should only be selected when using CORONA™, a viscose fiber produced from wood pulp by Daiwabo Rayon’s plant in Japan.
• OnceMore®, Viscose Staple Fiber (VSF), pulp {Södra} should only be selected when using OnceMore® dissolving pulp from Södra which is made from 50% wood and 50% reclaimed textiles.
• Tangcell® EcoTang® Viscose fiber {SanYou} should only be selected when the Raw Material Source is the regenerated cellulose fiber Tangcell® EcoTang® from Tangshan Sanyou Yuanda Fiber Co., Ltd.
• Tangcell® EcoColor Viscose fiber {SanYou}  should only be selected when the raw material is Tangcell® EcoColor manufactured by SanYou.
• GRACE® Ecosliya® Cellulose Viscose Staple Fibre {Yibin Grace Co., Ltd.}  should only be selected when the raw material is GRACE® Ecosliya® manufactured by Yibin Grace.

y) Wool Fabric

• Wool, from sheep, fine-medium and superfine, Australia, for textile is the default selection for wool fibers and should be used unless using recycled wool fiber.
• Wool fiber, recycled from waste textile, for textiles should be selected when using mechanically recycled wool fiber. This process is modelled from waste textiles and includes collection and processing impacts.
• Mwool®, recycled wool {Manteco} should only be selected when using the recycled wool Mwool® from Manteco S.p.a. For all other recycled wools, the generic option should be selected.
• ReviWool® Noils {Manteco} should only be selected when the raw material is ReviWool® manufactured by Manteco. ReviWool® fibres are virgin wool fibers that are recovered along the wool value chain.
• Carbonised ReviWool® noils {Manteco} should only be selected when the raw material is Carbonised ReviWool® manufactured by Manteco.

Yarn Formation Method

The Yarn Formation Method production stage has different process options depending on material type. Most fabrics share common yarn formation variables, which are described in the first part of this section. Unique process options are described afterward for their relevant materials.

Common Yarn Formation

Fabrics with Common Yarn Formation Method Structure: Acetate Triacetate fabric, Acrylic fabric, Alpaca fabric, Cotton fabric, Glass fiber fabric, Hemp fiber fabric, Lyocell fabric, Modal fabric, Nylon fabric, Polyester fabric, Polylactic Acid (PLA) fabric, Polypropylene (PP) fabric, Polytrimethylene Terephthalate (PTT) fabric, Polyurethane (PU) fabric, Viscose/Rayon fabric, Wool fabric

For these fabric types, the process options are differentiated by common variables including:

• Yarn Spinning Method (Filament and Staple Fiber spinning methods)
• Material Type (Raw Material Content)
• Textile Formation Type (Knit and Woven)
• Yarn Size (DTEX/denier/Ne/Nm)

These factors are included in the naming of the Yarn Formation Method and knowing how to choose between these variables will enable you to select the most appropriate process option for your fabric. Not all combinations of variables exist; only applicable Yarn Formation Method process options will be shown for each fabric.

If the yarn details of a fabric are not known, then the default selection can be used. At minimum, it is recommended to align the Textile Formation type (Knit or Woven) with the Textile Formation Production Stage.

Yarn Spinning Method

For synthetic polymers, the following yarn spinning methods can be customized:

• Extrusion and melt-spinning, continuous filament, with texturing is the default variable type and should be used whenever a textured continuous filament yarn is used. This includes yarns textured by air jet and false twist (ATY and DTY). If a synthetic yarn is a continuous filament but it is not known if it is textured or not, the default choice of “with texturing” should be used.
• Extrusion and melt-spinning, continuous filament, no texturing should only be used for flat continuous filament yarns. The yarn filaments should appear flat and straight together.
• Extrusion and staple fiber spinning, […], ring spun should be used when the polymer filaments have been cut into shorter staple fibers after being extruded and are then spun into yarn using the ring spinning technique. If a synthetic yarn is a staple fiber yarn but the specific spinning method is not known, the ring spinning option should be selected.
• Extrusion and staple fiber spinning, […], open end (rotor)should only be used whenever the polymer filaments have been cut into shorter staple fibers after being extruded and are then spun into yarn using the rotor spinning technique.
• Spinning, microfibers (yarn size<1 DTEX) should only be used for continuous filament yarn that is constructed of microfiber filaments (<1 DTEX).

For natural fibers, there is no extrusion step and the yarn spinning methods that can be customized are:

• Spinning, […], ring spun should be used when the natural fibers are spun into a yarn using the ring spinning technique. If the specific spinning method is not known, the ring spinning option should be selected.
• Spinning, […], open end (rotor) should be used when the natural fibers are spun into a yarn using the rotor spinning technique.
• Spinning, recycled yarns, open end (rotor) (250 DTEX-225 denier-24/1 Ne-40 Nm) {Usha Yarns Ltd} should be selected when using recycled cotton fiber by Usha Yarn Ltd. This material requires no further dyeing, scouring or bleaching.

Material Type

The material type is listed for some fabric types in the yarn formation process name. This variable does not have to be customized, as only the material type applicable to the selected fabric type will be shown. For instance, “Spinning, cotton, […]” will be the only material type shown for cotton fabric spinning options while “Spinning, synthetics, […]” will be the only material type shown for polyester fabric spinning options. The different material types are used to differentiate impacts and yield loss within the spinning processes.

Textile Formation Type

The textile formation type influences the impacts of Yarn Formation Method, since woven fabrics generally require yarns with a higher degree of twist than do knit fabrics. This variable is only found within staple fiber yarn choices and where there is data to support separating processes. The following choices will be available:

• Spinning, […], for knit should be used in conjunction with the selection of a knitting process in the Textile Formation.
• Spinning, […], for woven should be used in conjunction with the selection of a weaving process in the Textile Formation.

If using a non-woven Textile Formation, keep the default selection “Extrusion and melt-spinning, continuous filament, no texturing” for synthetic polymers, even when staple fibers are used. This is the most appropriate proxy in the Higg MSI. For natural fibers, select “None” as the most appropriate proxy.

Yarn Count (Size)

Yarn count can have a significant influence on the impacts of the Yarn Formation Method. Yarn counts are listed in the following equivalent units: decitex (DTEX, grams per 10 kilometer), denier (grams per 9 kilometer), English Cotton Count (Ne, 840 yards per pound), and Numero Metric Count (kilometers per kilogram). Not every discrete yarn size is listed, so it is necessary to select the best proxy from available yarn sizes. In accordance with general LCA principles, when selecting the between two possible representative proxies, the more conservative choice should be used. The following table provides a guide to selecting yarn size process accordingly:

Staple Fiber Yarns

Actual Yarn Count (Range)	Higg MSI Spinning Process
Yarns below 65DTEX – 58 denier – 91/1 Ne – 154 Nm	Spinning […] (45 DTEX-41 denier-130/1 Ne-222 Nm)
66DTEX– 59 denier – 90/1 Ne – 153 Nm to 110DTEX – 99 denier – 54/1 Ne – 91 Nm	Spinning […] (70 DTEX-63 denier-84/1 Ne-143 Nm)
111DTEX – 100 denier –53/1 Ne – 90 Nm to 144DTEX – 130 denier – 41/1 Ne – 69 Nm	Spinning […] (120 DTEX-108 denier-49/1 Ne-83 Nm)
145DTEX–131 denier –40/1 Ne – 68 Nm to 166DTEX–150 denier – 35/1 Ne – 60 Nm	Spinning […] (150 DTEX-135 denier-40/1 Ne-67 Nm)
167DTEX–151 denier –34/1 Ne – 59 Nm to 194DTEX–175 denier –30/1 Ne – 51 Nm	Spinning […] (170 DTEX-153 denier-34/1 Ne-59 Nm)
195DTEX–176 denier –29/1 Ne – 50 Nm to 240DTEX–216 denier –25/1 Ne – 42 Nm	Spinning […] (200 DTEX-180 denier-30/1 Ne-50 Nm)
241DTEX–217 denier –24/1 Ne – 41 Nm to 290DTEX–261 denier –20/1 Ne – 34 Nm	Spinning […] (250 DTEX-225 denier-24/1 Ne-40 Nm)
291DTEX–262 denier –20/1 Ne – 34Nm to 324DTEX–292 denier –18/1 Ne – 31 Nm	Spinning […] (300 DTEX-270 denier-20/1 Ne-33 Nm)
325DTEX–293 denier –18/1 Ne – 31 Nm to 362DTEX–326 denier –16/1 Ne – 28 Nm	Spinning […] (330 DTEX-297 denier-18/1 Ne-30 Nm)
363DTEX–327 denier –16/1 Ne – 28 Nm and above	Spinning […] (370 DTEX-333 denier-16/1 Ne-27 Nm)

 

Determining the effective Yarn Count to select when using a plied yarn:

Once a group of single filaments or a group of staple fibers is twisted or spun into a yarn, it can be referred to as a single yarn. When two or more spun yarn strands are twisted together to construct a larger yarn, it is known as a plied yarn.

When using a plied yarn, the size of the individual yarn strand should be used to select the most appropriate Yarn Formation Method process.

Example:A fabric is knit using a 72/2s (Ne) yarn, denoting a plied yarn of two strands with each strand having a yarn count of 72 Ne. In this case, the effective yarn count to be used (72 Ne) is in the middle of the range from the second row of the table above and the following MSI yarn size should be selected: Spinning […] (70 DTEX-63 denier-84/1 Ne-143 Nm)

Determining the effective Yarn Count to select for a fabric with multiple yarns:

For fabrics with multiple yarns of the same polymer type, it is possible to choose a single yarn size to represent them. The simplest way to do this is to take the average, by weight, of the yarns:

Example:A fabric has the following yarn content:

45%Polyester (75D/36F)+ 30%Polyester (150D/48F)+ 25%Polyester (30D/01F)

Taking the weighted average of these yarns, the following single equivalent yarn size can be used:(75D)*0.45 + (150D)*0.30 + (30D)*.25 = 86D

86D (denier) is in the middle of the range from the second row of the table above and the following MSI yarn size should be selected: Spinning […] (70 DTEX-63 denier-84/1 Ne-143 Nm)

Plied yarns should be accounted for before using this formula.

This approximation is acceptable for most yarn size combinations without introducing a difference in the closest MSI process. Because spinning impacts are not linear with regards to yarn size, a more representative equation is to use the inverse of yarn size. For the above example: (1/(1/75)*0.45+(1/150)*0.30+(1/30)*.25) = 61D. Even with this example, which has very different yarn sizes, the MSI yarn size that would be selected is Spinning […] (70 DTEX-63 denier-84/1 Ne-143 Nm).

For Continuous Filament Yarns, only one size range is available:

• Extrusion and melt-spinning, continuous filament […] (80 to 500 DTEX- 72 to 450 den- 125 to 20 Nm)should be used for all yarn sizes. While the process impacts are generated from this size range, it is the best available proxy in the Higg MSI for the full range of continuous filament yarn sizes.

Aramid Fabric

When using Aramid fabric, the following default process is available:

• Wet-spun continuous filament is the default process selection for Aramid fabrics. In wet-spinning, the polymer is dissolved in a solvent before the extrusion process rather than just using heat.

Bast Fiber Fabrics

(Flax fiber fabric, Hemp fiber fabric, Jute fiber fabric)

Bast fiber fabrics made from long fibers require additional processing that is not captured in the Raw Material Source. Instead the following process is the used and is the default for these fiber types:

• Spinning, bast fiber (long fiber) contains further wet processing, including bleaching and pectin removal, that occurs after the scutching process. The fibers are then used in a wet spinning process.

Carbon Fiber Fabric

Carbon fiber fabrics require additional processing beyond the Raw Material Source. The Raw Material Source needs to be carbonized before it is carbon fiber. The following Yarn Formation Method process is the default:

• Carbonization of fibers contains the impacts of oxidizing and stabilizing the raw material before carbonizing in an oxygen-free environment at high temperature (>1200°C).

Elastane/Spandex Fabric

The impacts of yarn formation for creating elastane/spandex yarns are currently included in the Raw Material Source impacts. The default Yarn Formation Method is:

• Spinning, continuous filament (dry), The LYCRA Company (empty process, impacts contained in LYCRA raw material process)is a placeholder empty process that should be selected whenever the Raw Material Source is “Spandex fiber {The LYCRA Company}, contains data for yarn formation/spinning”.

Lyocell Fabric

In addition to the common yarn spinning process options, there are the following special yarn spinning processes for lyocell fabric: 

• Spinning, TENCEL™ Lyocell Filament {Lenzing} (empty process, impacts contained in raw material process) is a placeholder empty process and should be selected whenever the Raw Material Source is “TENCEL™ Lyocell Filament {Lenzing} (includes yarn formation)”.

Nylon Fabric

In addition to the common yarn spinning process options, there are the following special yarn spinning processes for nylon fabric:

• Spinning, recycled PA 6.6 {Fulgar Q-NOVA} (empty process, impact contained in raw material stage) should be selected whenever the Raw Material Source is “Nylon 6.6, recycled (Fulgar Q-NOVA- contains data for yarn formation/spinning)”.
• Spinning, Amni Soul Eco {Solvay} (empty process, impact contained in raw material stage) should be selected whenever the Raw Material Source is “Nylon 6.6, Amni Soul Eco {Solvay Group}”.

Polyester Fabric

In addition to the common yarn spinning process options, there are the following special yarn spinning processes for polyester fabric:

• Melt spinning with texturing, {The LYCRA Company} empty process, impacts contained in raw material process) should be selected whenever the Raw Material Source is “LYCRA® T400 EcoMade Fiber {The LYCRA Company}, (includes yarn formation)”.
• e.dye dope dyed textured yarn (DTY) {e.dye} (150 DTEX-135 denier-40/1 Ne-67 Nm) (includes coloration) should be selected when using e.dye® Waterless Color System™ dope dyed or so-called solution-dyed yarn (this process includes coloration).
• Spinning, Spunbond nonwoven {Freudenberg} (empty process, impacts contained textile formation process) is a placeholder empty process and should be selected when using the textile formation process “Spunbond nonwoven {Freudenberg} (includes yarn formation)”.
• Thermal drawing and texturizing {Nan Ya Plastics}, polyester filament mechanically recycled drawn-textured yarn (33 to 333 dtex-30 to 300 denier) should be selected when using Nan Ya Plastics mechanically recycled raw material. This process includes thermal drawing & texturizing to make drawn-textured yarn (DTY). Range of the yarn sizes is 33 to 333 dtex-30 to 300 denier. This process is not limited to that raw material.
• Spinning with thermal drawing {Nan Ya Plastics}, polyester filament mechanically recycled fully-drawn yarn (11 to 333 dtex-10 to 300 denier) should be selected when using Nan Ya Plastics mechanically recycled raw material. This process includes melt extrusion, spinning & thermal drawing to make fully-drawn yarn (FDY). Range of the yarn sizes is 11 to 333 dtex-10 to 300 denier. This process is not limited to that raw material.
• Spinning without thermal drawing {Nan Ya Plastics}, polyester filament mechanically recycled partially oriented yarn (78 to 511 dtex-70 to 460 denier) should be selected when using Nan Ya Plastics mechanically recycled raw material. This process includes melt extrusion, spinning & drawing to make partially oriented yarn (POY). Range of the yarn sizes is 78 to 511 dtex-70 to 460 denier. This process is not limited to that raw material.
• Thermal drawing and texturizing {Nan Ya Plastics}, polyester filament chemically recycled drawn-textured yarn (56 to 333 dtex-50 to 300 denier) should be selected when using Nan Ya Plastics chemically recycled raw material. This process includes thermal drawing & texturizing to make drawn-textured yarn (DTY). Range of the yarn sizes is 56 to 333 dtex-50 to 300 denier.. This process is not limited to that raw material.
• Spinning with thermal drawing {Nan Ya Plastics}, polyester filament chemically recycled fully-drawn yarn (22 to 83 dtex-20 to 75 denier) should be selected when using Nan Ya Plastics chemically recycled raw material. This process includes melt extrusion, spinning & thermal drawing to make fully-drawn yarn (FDY). Range of the yarn sizes is 22 to 83 dtex-20 to 75 denier. This process is not limited to that raw material.
• Spinning without thermal drawing {Nan Ya Plastics}, polyester filament chemically recycled partially oriented yarn (89 to 538 dtex-80 to 485 denier) should be selected when using Nan Ya Plastics mechanically recycled raw material. This process includes melt extrusion, spinning & drawing to make partially oriented yarn (POY). Range of the yarn sizes is 89 to 538 dtex-80 to 485 denier. This process is not limited to that raw material.

Polyurethane (PU) Fabric

In addition to the common yarn spinning process options, there is the following special yarn spinning process for Polyurethane (PU) fabric:

• Freeflex™ TPU melt spinning {BASF}, (15 to 100 DTEX- 14 to 90 den- 667 to 100 Nm)should be selected when using yarns made from Freeflex™ TPU resin {BASF}.

Silk Fabric

Silk fabric has a different yarn formation method than many other fabrics. For silk fabric, there is only one default process option:

• Silk reeling (spinning) is the process of winding silk onto bobbins, cleaning it, doubling the silk, and spinning it into silk fibers.

Textile Formation

The Textile Formation Production Stage has different process options depending on material type. Broadly, there are three options for Textile Formation: Knit, Woven, and Non-Woven. Even without detailed fabric information, it is usually possible to select a Textile Formation option and to customize materials accordingly.

If the yarn details of a fabric are not known but the Textile Formation type (Knit, Woven, Non-Woven) can be determined, it is recommended to update the process selection from the default if necessary. For instance, a woven fabric should be updated from the default Knitting, 200 DTEX-180 denier-30/1 Ne-50 Nm process to the Weaving, 200 DTEX-180 denier-30/1 Ne-50 Nm process.

• Knitting processes are the default selection for MSI example materials. Knitting processes should be selected when the fabric is a knit construction (made up of a yarns that are looped continuously to produce a braided look). Knitting should be selected for all knit types: single jersey, interlock, rib, double knit, warp knit, jacquard, etc.
• Weaving processes should be selected when the fabric is a woven construction (made up of yarns that are crossed at right angles to each other). Weaving should be selected for all woven types: plain weave, basket weave, dobby, ribs, twills, herringbones, etc.
• Non-Woven processes should be selected when yarns are oriented and then bonded together through mechanical or chemical means.

Weaving and Knitting Processes with Common Structure

Most Weaving and Knitting Processes share a common structure, showing the textile formation type (Knitting or Weaving) followed by a yarn count (size). These yarn counts follow the same structure as the Yarn Formation Method processes and the same overarching method can be used to select the correct process option when the fabric yarn size does not exactly match the process options:

a) Yarn count size

 

Actual Yarn Count (Range)	Higg MSI Knitting/Weaving Process
Yarns below 65DTEX – 58 denier – 91/1 Ne – 154 Nm	[Knitting/Weaving] (45 DTEX-41 denier-130/1 Ne-222 Nm)
66DTEX– 59 denier – 90/1 Ne – 153 Nm to 110DTEX – 99 denier – 54/1 Ne – 91 Nm	[Knitting/Weaving] (70 DTEX-63 denier-84/1 Ne-143 Nm)
111DTEX – 100 denier –53/1 Ne – 90 Nm to 144DTEX – 130 denier – 41/1 Ne – 69 Nm	[Knitting/Weaving] (120 DTEX-108 denier-49/1 Ne-83 Nm)
145DTEX–131 denier –40/1 Ne – 68 Nm to 166DTEX–150 denier – 35/1 Ne – 60 Nm	[Knitting/Weaving] (150 DTEX-135 denier-40/1 Ne-67 Nm)
167DTEX–151 denier –34/1 Ne – 59 Nm to 194DTEX–175 denier –30/1 Ne – 51 Nm	[Knitting/Weaving] (170 DTEX-153 denier-34/1 Ne-59 Nm)
195DTEX–176 denier –29/1 Ne – 50 Nm to 240DTEX–216 denier –25/1 Ne – 42 Nm	[Knitting/Weaving] (200 DTEX-180 denier-30/1 Ne-50 Nm)
241DTEX–217 denier –24/1 Ne – 41 Nm to 290DTEX–261 denier –20/1 Ne – 34 Nm	[Knitting/Weaving] (250 DTEX-225 denier-24/1 Ne-40 Nm)
291DTEX–262 denier –20/1 Ne – 34Nm to 324DTEX–292 denier –18/1 Ne – 31 Nm	[Knitting/Weaving] (300 DTEX-270 denier-20/1 Ne-33 Nm)
325DTEX–293 denier –18/1 Ne – 31 Nm to 362DTEX–326 denier –16/1 Ne – 28 Nm	[Knitting/Weaving] (330 DTEX-297 denier-18/1 Ne-30 Nm)
363DTEX–327 denier –16/1 Ne – 28 Nm and above	[Knitting/Weaving] (370 DTEX-333 denier-16/1 Ne-27 Nm)

b) Determining the effective Yarn Count to select for Textile Formation when using a plied yarn:

When using a plied yarn, the effective (final) yarn size should be used to determine the most appropriate Textile Formation rather than the size of individual yarn strand as is used in Yarn Formation Method.

Example:A fabric is knit using a 72/2s (Ne) yarn, denoting a plied yarn of two strands with each strand having a yarn count of 72 Ne. As described previously in the example in the previous Yarn Formation Method section, the Yarn Formation Method should use the Spinning […] (70 DTEX-63 denier-84/1 Ne-143 Nm) process. However, the effective yarn size is equivalent to a 36/1s (Ne) yarn. Therefore, the knitting process that should be selected is Knitting, (150 DTEX-135 denier-40/1 Ne-67 Nm).

c) Determining the effective Yarn Count to select for Textile Formation when using a fabric with multiple yarns:

The same equation that is used to determine the effective yarn count for the Yarn Formation Method can be used to determine the effective Yarn Count when selecting your process for a Textile Formation process. This involves determining the average, by weight, of the yarns:

Example:A woven fabric has the following yarn content:

45%Polyester (75D/36F)+ 30%Polyester (150D/48F)+ 25%Polyester (30D/01F)

Taking the weighted average of these yarns, the following single equivalent yarn size can be used:(75D)*0.45 + (150D)*0.30 + (30D)*.25 = 86D

86D (denier) is in middle of the range from the second row of the example table and the following MSI yarn size should be selected: Weaving, (70 DTEX-63 denier-84/1 Ne-143 Nm)

Plied yarns should be accounted for before using this formula.

When using a basket weave, each yarn is inserted separately and so should not be treated as a plied yarn. If a 2×2 basket weave uses 2 x 150D yarns to give an appearance more similar to a 300D x 300D woven fabric, the appropriate process selection is still based on the effective individual yarn size (150D).

This approximation is acceptable for most yarn size combinations without introducing a difference in the closest MSI process. Since the weaving and knitting impacts are not linear with regards to yarn size, a more representative equation is to consider the inverse of yarn size. For the above example: (1/(1/75)*0.45+(1/150)*0.30+(1/30)*.25) = 61D. Even with this example, which has very different yarn sizes, the MSI yarn size that would be selected is Spinning […] (70 DTEX-63 denier-84/1 Ne-143 Nm).

d) Other Knitting and Weaving Processes

The following knitting and weaving processes should be used in specific situations:

• Knitting, circular (200 DTEX-180 denier-30/1 Ne), cotton should be selected when using a knitted cotton fabric with a yarn size of 200DTEX. For other yarn sizes the most appropriate process should be determined using the common structure for knitting and weaving described previously.
• Weaving, (150 DTEX-135 denier-40/1 Ne- 67 Nm), Cotton (twill fabric) should be selected when using a woven cotton fabric with a yarn size of 200DTEX. For other yarn sizes the most appropriate process should be determined using the common structure for knitting and weaving described previously.
• Weaving {Toray}, (polyester filament- 167 DTEX- 150 denier- 35/1 Ne- 6 Nm) should be selected when using a woven polyester fabric known to be manufactured by Toray, with a yarn size of 150 denier. For other yarn sizes the most appropriate process should be determined using the common structure for knitting and weaving described previously.
• Weaving, water jet loom {SpinDye®}, (83 DTEX- 75 den- 12 Nm) should be selected when using a woven fabric known to be manufactured by SpinDye®, with a yarn size of 75 denier. For other yarn sizes the most appropriate process should be determined using the common structure for knitting and weaving described previously.
• Weaving, for silk should be selected when using a woven silk fabric. This is the default process selection for silk fabric.
• Spunbond nonwoven {Freudenberg} (includes yarn formation) should be selected when using Spunbond nonwoven material produced by Freudenberg Far Eastern Spunweb. This process contains the yarn formation impacts and the applicable “Spinning, Spunbond nonwoven {Freudenberg}” empty process should be selected.

e) Non-Woven Processes

The following non-woven process options exist in Textile Formation for different fabric types:

• Non-woven, dry laid is the default process selection for Glass fiber fabric and should be used when constructing non-woven fabrics from glass fibers.
• Non-woven, needle punching, textiles should be selected for fabrics where fibers are mechanically oriented and then bonded together by punching with thousands of barbed felting needles that are repeatedly passed in and out of the fiber web.

Preparation

The Preparation production stage covers the fabric processing that occurs after Textile Formation to clean the fabric, usually in preparation for dyeing. However, even fabrics that will not be additionally dyed use these processes to clean the fabric after Textile Formation. The Preparation production stage is a multi-select stage, which means that more than one process option can be chosen to apply at the same time within one fabric. Preparation process options generally apply to a range of fabrics:

All Natural and Cellulosic Fibers

(Acetate Triacetate fabric, Alpaca fabric, Cotton fabric, Flax fiber fabric, Hemp fiber fabric, Jute fiber fabric, Lyocell fabric, Modal fabric, Viscose/Rayon fabric, Wool fabric)

• Preparation for dye (scouring, etc), knit textile, natural fibers should be selected when the fabric uses a Knitting process for Textile Formationand is being cleaned and/or prepared for dyeing. Since all Higg MSI Example Materials are knits, this is the default process selection.
• Preparation for dye (scouring, etc), woven textile, natural fibers should be selected when the fabric uses a Weaving process for Textile Formationand is being cleaned and/or prepared for dyeing.

Cellulosic Fibers

(Cotton fabric, Flax fiber fabric, Hemp fiber fabric, Jute fiber fabric,  Lyocell fabric, Modal fabric, Viscose/Rayon fabric)

• Cellulase enzyme treatment, for appearance should be additionally selected when the fabric preparation additionally includes an enzyme treatment to improve the appearance and/or hand feel of a cellulosic fabric. This process should generally be selected in addition to, not instead of, a “Preparation for dye […]” process.
• SaveDrop™ cotton pre-treatment {Tintoria Piana} should be selected only when using  SaveDrop™ cotton pretreatment processing from Tintoria Piana. When selecting this process, users should also select ‘SaveDrop™ cotton dyeing {Tintoria Piana}’ in the Coloration stage.

Synthetic Fibers

(Acrylic fabric, Nylon fabric, Polyester fabric, Polylactic Acid (PLA) fabric, Polypropylene (PP) fabric, Polytrimethylene terephthalate (PTT) fabric, Polyurethane (PU) fabric)

• Scouring, synthetic fibers is the default selection for synthetic fabrics and is applicable when the fabric is being cleaned and/or prepared for dyeing.
• Heat setting, textiles, preparation should be additionally selected if the synthetic fabric is being heat set after scouring before any further processing. This process should generally be selected in addition to, not instead of, the “Scouring […]” process.

Polyester Fabric

• Preparation for dye {Toray}, polyester filament woven fabric (includes data for dyeing and finishing) should be selected when using “Polyethylene terephthalate (PET) {Toray}, partially bio-based” raw material and when the fabric manufacturer is known to be Toray. When selecting this process, users should also select “Dyeing {Toray}, polyester woven fabric (empty process-impacts found in preparation process)” under the Coloration production stage and “Finishing {Toray}, polyester woven fabric (empty process-impacts found in preparation process)”under the Additional Coloration and Finishing production stage.

Coloration

The Coloration production stage includes the dyeing and coloration methods that impart color into a fabric. While this production stage is listed in the Higg MSI after fabric processing like Textile Formation, the Coloration processes are applicable regardless of when the coloration occurs.  Coloration methods including solution (dope) dyeing, fiber dyeing, and yarn dyeing are all included in this production stage to allow comparison of processing impacts.

Only dyestuffs that are applicable are shown for each specific fabric type. If you do not know the specific dye method used, the default selection should remain unchanged.

Batch dyeing processes

Batch dyeing processes should be selected for all types of batch dyeing (including fiber and yarn dyeing) and for all production equipment (including jet/rapid dyeing, beam dyeing, and jigger dyeing). Batch dyeing processes differ based on the type of dyestuffs used.

• Batch dyeing (incl. piece, jet, jig, kier, yarn) – Acid dyes should be used when acid dyes are used in a batch dyeing process.
• Batch dyeing (incl. piece, jet, jig, kier [fiber], paddle, yarn) – Direct, sulfur, vat or reactive dyes should be used when direct, sulfur, vat, or reactive dyes are used in a batch dyeing process.
• Batch dyeing (incl. piece, jet, jig, kier, yarn) – Disperse or cationic dyes should be used when disperse and/or cationic dyes are used in a batch dyeing process.

Continuous dyeing processes

In continuous dyeing, a fabric is moved in an uninterrupted sequence of process steps, typically including a padding or other dye impregnation step, rollers to squeeze out excess dyeing liquor, a dye fixation step, and a washing step. As with batch dyeing, the process choices in the Higg MSI will differ based on the type of dyestuffs used.

• Continuous dyeing – Acid dyes should be selected when using acid dyes in a continuous dyeing process.
• Continuous dyeing – Direct, sulfur, vat or reactive dyes should be selected when using direct, sulfur, vat, or reactive dyes in a continuous dyeing process.
• Continuous dyeing – Disperse or cationic dyes should be used when using disperse and/or cationic dyes in a continuous dyeing process.

Solution (dope) dyeing processes

In solution (dope) dyeing processes, the dye pigments are added into the dissolved raw material solution (or spinning dope) prior to fiber formation. Since the fibers are embedded into the whole polymer, colors tend to show long-lasting vibrancy and are less prone to fading over time.

• Solution (dope) dyeing is applicable to synthetic polymers and should be selected when the dye pigments are mixed into the melted masterbatch prior to pelletization.
• Dope Dyeing for Lenzing Modal® COLOR should be selected when using Lenzing™ Modal Black and/or Lenzing™ Modal Color fibers. In this process, the dye pigments are mixed in with the spinning dope prior to fiber formation.
• Dope dyeing for Livaeco Spun-dyed Viscose Staple Fiber {BIRLA} (empty process) should be selected when using Livaeco Spun-dyed viscose staple fiber from Birla Cellulose™.
• Coloration {e.dye} (empty process, impacts contained in yarn formation) is a placeholder empty process and should be selected when using e.dye dope dyed textured yarn (DTY) {e.dye}.

Alternative dyeing processes

• NTX Cooltrans Polyester Coloration {NTX} (includes coloration and finishing) should be selected when using the Cooltrans process on a polyester fabric.
• NTX Cooltrans Nylon Coloration {NTX} (includes coloration and finishing) should be selected when using the Cooltrans process on a nylon fabric.
• SaveDrop™ cotton dyeing {Tintoria Piana} should be selected only when using  SaveDrop™ cotton dyeing processing from Tintoria Piana. When selecting this process, users should also select ‘SaveDrop™ cotton pre-treatment {Tintoria Piana}’ in the Preparation stage.

Additional Coloration and Finishing

The Additional Coloration and Finishing production stage covers textile printing and finishing steps. Both mechanical and chemical based finishing processes are included.

• Brushing/buffing, for textiles should be selected when the surface of a fabric is lightly brushed. The process is used to remove loose threads and short fiber ends from smooth-surfaced fabrics and to remove cut fibers after shearing.
• Calendering should be selected when the fabric is finished by passing it between heated rollers. This can be used to add a glossy, smooth finish and to control the air permeability of synthetic textiles by slightly melting the surface.
• Compacting, mechanical should be selected for knitted fabrics when using a compressive treatment in the lengthwise direction to control shrinkage, smoothness, and other functions.
• Embossing, for textiles should be selected when using a modified calendaring process (heat & pressure imparted by rollers) to create a pattern or graphic on the surface of a fabric. This process should also be used for moiré fabric appearance.
• Finishing SpinDye® shell PFC-free W/R + water based PU coating (solvent free) should be selected when using a SpinDye® fabric that has been treated with a water repellency treatment and a water-based polyurethane coating on one side.
• Foam or Spray-Dry should be selected when a chemical finish (such as water repellency, stain release, softeners, odor management, or antibacterial treatments) is added to the fabric using foamed air and a liquid finishing solution. After application, the fabric is dried but does not involve a (higher temperature) curing step. If multiple chemical finishes are applied at the same time, this process is still applicable. If a fabric is known to use a chemical finish but the specific method is unknown, then the Pad-Dry-Cureor Exhaust-Dry-Cure process should be used. If the fabric is known to use a Foam or Spray-Dry process but it is unknown if there is a curing step, then the Foam-Dry-Cure or Spray-Dry-Cure process should be used.
• Foam-Dry-Cure or Spray-Dry-Cure should be selected when a chemical finish (such as water repellency, stain release, softeners, odor management, or antibacterial treatments) is added to the fabric using foamed air and a liquid finishing solution. After application, the fabric is cured at an elevated temperature to give a durable finish as part of the drying process. If multiple chemical finishes are applied at the same time, this process is still applicable. If a fabric is known to use a chemical finish but the specific method is unknown, then the Pad-Dry-Cureor Exhaust-Dry-Cure process should be used.
• Heat sealing, textiles should be selected for synthetic textiles that are heat sealed in a wet bath.
• Heat setting, textiles, finishing should be selected for woven fabrics that use heat to set the warp and weft yarns and to stretch and set the fabric to its final dimensions in a stenter or tenter machine. This process is also called tentering and crabbing (for wool fabrics).
• Milling, textiles should be selected for wool textiles that have been felted. Milling is also known as felting and requires moisture, heat, and pressure. It can be performed in both alkaline and acidic conditions and this process should be selected for either type.
• Napping, mechanical should be selected when bristles or brushes are used to raise the end of fibers to generate a pile. Corduroy, velvet, and fleece are examples of fabrics that have a napping process.
• Pad-Dry or Exhaust-Dry should be selected when a chemical finish (such as water repellency, stain release, softeners, odor management, or antibacterial treatments) is added to the fabric using a solution bath and rollers to control the wet pick-up rate. After application the fabric is dried but does not involve a (higher temperature) curing step. If multiple chemical finishes are applied at the same time, this process is still applicable. If the fabric is known to use a Pad-Dry or Exhaust-Dry process but it is unknown if there is a curing step, then the Pad-Dry-Cure or Exhaust-Dry-Cure process should be used.
• Pad-Dry-Cure or Exhaust-Dry-Cure should be selected when a chemical finish (such as water repellency, stain release, softeners, odor management, or antibacterial treatments) is added to the fabric using a solution bath and rollers to control the wet pick-up rate. After application, the fabric is cured at an elevated temperature to give a durable finish as part of the drying process. If multiple chemical finishes are applied at the same time, this process is still applicable.
• Pressing/ironing should be selected when steam and pressure are used to remove unwanted creases or wrinkles from fabrics and/or to shape them when desired. It is similar to calendaring but with direct application of steam to the fabric.
• Printing, burnout should be selected when sulfuric acid is used to “burn” a pattern into the surface of a fabric by dissolving cellulosic materials. It is most commonly used on fabric blends of synthetics and cellulosics.
• Printing, digital should be selected when a digital printer is used to print ink onto a fabric to create a graphic or pattern. Printed fabrics that use dye sublimation printing (dyes are printed onto transfer paper, which is then transferred to the fabric using heat and pressure) should select this as the best proxy in the Higg MSI.
• Sanforizing should be selected when a woven fabric is stabilized in the fabric length and width by using a Sanforizer to apply moisture, heat, and pressure. This process is used to control the shrinkage of the fabric.
• Schreinering should be selected when using heat and pressure (via ribbed rollers) to create a very high fabric lustre. It is similar to Calendaring and
• Screen printing should be selected when a printing paste is applied to a fabric using a rotary or flat screen before being dried and affixed to the surface of the fabric. Printing pastes including PVC (plastisol), non-PVC (high solids acrylic), and water-based screen-printing inks should all use this process.
• Shearing should be selected when a raised nap or pile is cut to a uniform height. Depending on blade configuration it can also be used to cut stripes and other fabric patterns by varying surface height. Fabrics that are sheared tend to have been napped first. In this case, Napping, mechanical should also be selected.
• Sueding/Sanding should be selected when the surface of a fabric is lightly sanded using abrasive rollers. This raises some fibers to create a soft and smooth surface. This process is also known as peaching.
• Weighting or hand building should be selected when the fabric is modified to add fullness (bulk or weight) and/or increased stiffness. This is typically done through the addition of hand-building substances, such as starch, polyvinyl alcohol (PVA), vinyl-acetate polymers, polyurethane, thermoset resins, or acrylic co-polymers. Note that the process model for weighting or hand-building is currently only capturing the impacts associated with mechanical processing and care should be taken when interpreting the impacts of this process.

10. Wood-based Materials

The Wood-based Materials Material Category is composed of wood and paper products. Other cellulosic materials (such as Rayon) are available in other Material Categories like Textiles.

Wood-based Materials can be customized at the following Production Stages:

• Raw Material Source
• Shaping
• Finishing

At minimum, the type of wood or paper material needs to be known to select an appropriate Example Material in the Higg MSI.

There are four different Wood-based Materials Example Materials that can be selected and customized:

• Cardboard should be selected when the material is a corrugated paper product made of multiple layers.
• Cork should be selected when the material is a light, porous cellulosic material from the bark of the cork oak tree.
• Paper should be selected when the material is a paper product, manufactured from wood pulp and other cellulose fiber sources.
• Wood should be selected when the material is a hard fibrous material from the main substance of softwood and hardwood trees.

Raw Material Source

The Raw Material Source Production Stage covers the production of the wood-based materials from forestry practices through intermediate processing to a bulk commodity material form. The following process options are available to customize Wood-based Materials Example Materials:

Cardboard

• Cardboard, market mix is the default process selection and should be used unless using recycled content.
• Cardboard, recycled should be selected when the cardboard is manufactured from recycled content. If the cardboard is less than 43% recycled content, only the market mix process should be selected, as it already accounts for this amount of recycled content. For recycled content above this amount but below 94%, a Material Blend that contains both recycled and market mix cardboard should be created. Above 94% recycled content, this process should be selected.

Cork

• Cork, primary/virgin is the default process selection for cork material and is currently the only process selection available.

Paper

• Paper, market mix is the default process selection and should be used unless using recycled content.
• Paper, recycled should be selected when the paper is manufactured from recycled content. If the paper is only partly recycled content, it is not appropriate to only select this process. A Material Blend that contains both recycled and market mix paper should be created.

Wood

• Softwood plywood is the default process selection for wood material. If the specific wood used is unknown, this process should be selected.
• Ash wood should be selected when using Ash lumber.
• Aspen wood should be selected when using Aspen lumber.
• Beech wood should be selected when using Beech lumber.
• Birch wood should be selected when using Birch lumber.
• Cherry wood should be selected when using Cherry lumber.
• Hard Maple wood should be selected when using Hard Maple lumber.
• Red Oak wood should be selected when using Red Oak lumber.
• Soft Maple wood should be selected when using Soft Maple lumber.
• Walnut wood should be selected when using Walnut lumber.
• White Oak wood should be selected when using White Oak lumber.
• Willow wood should be selected when using Willow lumber.

Shaping

The Shaping Production Stage covers the forming of Cork and Woodinto shapes that will be used in finished product assembly. The Shaping processes are applicable to Cork and Wood materials. All Paper and Cardboard impacts are included in the Raw Material Source Production Stage and no additional processing options are applicable for these materials.

• Shaving, machine or hand is the default process selection and should be used unless the wood is used in bulk commodity with no shaping. This process covers the shaving and removal of wood material to form into a different shape.

Finishing

The Finishing Production Stage covers the surface treatments of Wood to provide additional function and/or aesthetic qualities. The Finishing processes are only applicable to Wood materials. All Paper and Cardboard impacts are included in the Raw Material Source Production Stage and no finishing options are applicable for these materials. Cork does not currently have any Finishing options.

• Stain, wood is the default process selection and should be used unless no surface treatment is applied to the wood (such as stain, paint, etc.). The process covers applying a stain finish to the surface of a wooden part.

11. Leather Alternatives

Leather Alternatives is a Material Category composed of plant-based materials, recycled animal hides, and other materials that are intended to be used as replacement for leather.

Leather Alternatives materials can be customized at the following Production Stages:

• Substrate Raw Material
• Chemistry Certifications

Leather Alternatives are divided into two subcategories based on its major component:

• Plant-based Leather Alternatives
• Animal-based Leather Alternatives

Substrate Raw Material

The Substrate Raw Material Production Stage covers the raw material content of the two subcategories of the Leather Alternatives.

Plant-based Leather Alternatives

Piñatex Fibre {Ananas Anam} (contains data for tanning, drying, finishing) is the default process selection for plant-based Leather Alternatives and is currently the only process selection available. This production process contains the full impact data for this material type, so if using this option, the other Production Stages should be set to “None”. Due to the specificity of this dataset, this material should only be selected if using Piñatex Fibre from Ananas Anam. Using this as a proxy for other plant-based leather alternatives is not considered representative.

Animal-based Leather Alternatives

• R-leather, recycled leather {Vegentech} is the default selection for animal-based leather alternatives. Due to the specificity of this dataset, this material should only be selected if using R-leather from Vegentech. Using this as a proxy for other animal-based leather alternatives is not considered representative.
• Bio Leather, recycled leather {Jiangxi Fuxing Leather Goods Co., Ltd.} should be selected when using Jiangxi’s Bio Leather made of recycled leather. This GRS-certified Bio Leather is made of around 51% cow leather scraps, and a combination of latex and polyurethane. Due to the specificity of this dataset, using this as a proxy for other animal-based leather alternatives is not considered representative.
• Regreen PU, composite recycled PU coated leather {Tong Hong} should only be selected when using Regreen PU coated leather from Tong Hong.
• Regreen suede, composite recycled leather {Tong Hong} should only be selected when using Regreen suede recycled leather from Tong Hong.