13. Textiles
13.1 Raw Material Source
13.3 Textile Formation
13.4 Preparation
13.5 Coloration
Coloration
The Coloration production stage includes the dyeing and coloration methods that impart color into a fabric. While this production stage is listed in the Higg MSI after fabric processing like Textile Formation, the Coloration processes are applicable regardless of when the coloration occurs. Coloration methods including solution (dope) dyeing, fiber dyeing, and yarn dyeing are all included in this production stage to allow comparison of processing impacts.
Only dyestuffs that are applicable are shown for each specific fabric type. If you do not know the specific dye method used, the default selection should remain unchanged.
Batch dyeing processes should be selected for all types of batch dyeing (including fiber and yarn dyeing) and for all production equipment (including jet/rapid dyeing, beam dyeing, and jigger dyeing). Batch dyeing processes differ based on the type of dyestuffs used.
- Batch dyeing (incl. piece, jet, jig, kier, yarn) – Acid dyes should be used when acid dyes are used in a batch dyeing process.
- Batch dyeing (incl. piece, jet, jig, kier [fiber], paddle, yarn) – Direct, sulfur, vat or reactive dyes should be used when direct, sulfur, vat, or reactive dyes are used in a batch dyeing process.
- Batch dyeing (incl. piece, jet, jig, kier, yarn) – Disperse or cationic dyes should be used when disperse and/or cationic dyes are used in a batch dyeing process.
In continuous dyeing, a fabric is moved in an uninterrupted sequence of process steps, typically including a padding or other dye impregnation step, rollers to squeeze out excess dyeing liquor, a dye fixation step, and a washing step. As with batch dyeing, the process choices in the Higg MSI will differ based on the type of dyestuffs used.
- Continuous dyeing – Acid dyes should be selected when using acid dyes in a continuous dyeing process.
- Continuous dyeing – Direct, sulfur, vat or reactive dyes should be selected when using direct, sulfur, vat, or reactive dyes in a continuous dyeing process.
- Continuous dyeing – Disperse or cationic dyes should be used when using disperse and/or cationic dyes in a continuous dyeing process.
In solution (dope) dyeing processes, the dye pigments are added into the dissolved raw material solution (or spinning dope) prior to fiber formation. Since the fibers are embedded into the whole polymer, colors tend to show long-lasting vibrancy and are less prone to fading over time.
- Solution (dope) dyeing is applicable to synthetic polymers and should be selected when the dye pigments are mixed into the melted masterbatch prior to pelletization.
- Dope Dyeing for Lenzing Modal® COLOR should be selected when using Lenzing™ Modal Black and/or Lenzing™ Modal Color fibers. In this process, the dye pigments are mixed in with the spinning dope prior to fiber formation.
- Dope dyeing for Livaeco Spun-dyed Viscose Staple Fiber {BIRLA} (empty process) should be selected when using Livaeco Spun-dyed viscose staple fiber from Birla Cellulose™.
- Coloration {e.dye} (empty process, impacts contained in yarn formation) is a placeholder empty process and should be selected when using e.dye dope dyed textured yarn (DTY) {e.dye}.
- NTX Cooltrans Polyester Coloration {NTX} (includes coloration and finishing) should be selected when using the Cooltrans process on a polyester fabric.
- NTX Cooltrans Nylon Coloration {NTX} (includes coloration and finishing) should be selected when using the Cooltrans process on a nylon fabric.
- SaveDrop™ cotton dyeing {Tintoria Piana} should be selected only when using SaveDrop™ cotton dyeing processing from Tintoria Piana. When selecting this process, users should also select ‘SaveDrop™ cotton pre-treatment {Tintoria Piana}’ in the Preparation stage.